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AROUND THE WORLD 
WITH JACK AND JANET 




BT NORMA R.WATEnBURY 



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By permission of Baron Von Gloeden, Taormina. 

A Boy of the Desert. 



AROUND THE WORLD 

WITH JACK AND JANET 



A SET OF RARE AND BEAUTIFUL 
POST CARDS 

illustrating the text books, "The King's High- 
way" and "Around the World with Jack and 
Janet." Twenty-five cents for the set of Twenty- 
four. 

Order from your Mission Board. 



A TRIP TICKET AROUND THE 
WORLD 

For Only Two Cents. Order for your 
Juniors from your Mission Board. 



SEND TO YOUR BOARD FOR 

YOUR OWN CHILDREN'S PAPER 
OR MAGAZINE 

which will give you so much in- 
teresting material for your trip. 



ASK MOTHER TO SUBSCRIBE FOR 

"EVERYLAND" 

FOR YOU 

It comes every three months, is the size of St. 

Nicholas and costs only Fifty Cents a Year. 

Address "Everyland," 156 Fifth Avenue, New 

York, and offer to be an agent. 



AROUND THE WORLD 

WITH JACK AND JANET 



A STUDY OF MISSIONS 
BY 

NORMA R. WATERBURY 



Issued by 

THE CENTRAL COMMITTEE ON THE UNITED. 

STUDY OF FOREIGN MISSION8 

■West Medford, Mass. 



I* 



^v 



Copyright 1915 

By NORMA R. WATEREURY 

All Rights Reserved 



©CLA397580 , 

VERMONT PRINTING COMPANY, BRATTLEBORO 

APR 14 1915 



TABLE OF CONTENTS. 

Page 

List of Illustrations 6 

Introduction 7 

Travel. — A Poem. By Robert Louis Stevenson . . 9 

Chapter I.— Out of the New World into the Old . . 11 

Ceylon. — A Poem. By Phillips Brooks .... 29 

Chapter II. — Spicy Breezes and Palmy Plains ... 31 

The Vision of Sir Launfal. — A Poem. By James Russell 

Lowell . . . . 55 

Chapter III. — Letters from India 57 

The Palm Tree. — A Poem. By John Greenleaf Whittier . 77 

Chapter IV. — From Pagoda Land to the Lion City . . 79 

China. — A Poem. By Oliver Wendell Holmes . . 107 
Chapter V.— The Middle Flowery Kingdom . . .109 

"America for Me." — A Poem. By Henry Van Dyke . 139 

Chapter VI.— A Peep at Three Nations .... 141 

Review. — Jack and Janet's Party 157 



LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS 



Facing 
Page 



A Boy of the Desert Frontispiece ^/' 

Street Scene in Cairo 9 v 

Egyptian Boy with a Load of Fodder 16 

Egyptian Village Girl 20 

Climbing for Cocoanuts 29 

Devil Dancers in Kandy 33 * 

A Little Tamil Girl 41 

Picking Ceylon Tea 48 

Indian Child in Everyday Dress 55 

Guardians of a Shrine 58 v 

Fakir on a Bed of Spikes 68 

Decorating her Dooryard for a Hindu Festival . . . 73 - 

Javanese Malay Girl 77 V' 

Rangoon College Student Playing Chin-lone ... 84 

Burman Girls at Morton Lane School 89 

Dyak Chief and Wife 93 y 

Sons of a McTyeire Graduate 102 

River Life at Canton 107 

A Favorite Mode of Travel in China 119 / 

Manchu Lady Leaving Dr. Leonard's Hospital, Presbyterian 

Mission, Peking 122 

Fujiyama, the Sacred Mountain of Japan . . . . 134- 

Street Scene in Seoul 139 

Avenue of Royal Palms at Honolulu 148 

Surf Riders at Honolulu 158 



INTRODUCTION 




ACH boy in the class is Jack and 
each girl Janet, and each is to 
keep a note-book, which will be 
a diary of the trip. The note- 
books are not to be used in the 
class, but to be kept for home 
work. Jack and Janet may like to illustrate 
their diaries with drawings or appropriate 
pictures cut out of magazines. They may 
collect post-cards of their travels or the 
teacher may distribute the set of cards as 
prizes for the best diaries. It would be in- 
teresting if Jack or Janet should appear 
before the class in the costume ot the coun- 
try they are visiting. They might also bring 
curios. 

The boys and girls may have books and 
read the lesson at home, answering the 
questions from memory in their diaries, or 
the teacher may read the lesson aloud, the 



class being cautioned to listen attentively, 
in order to be able to answer questions, as 
soon as she has finished. After the questions 
have been answered orally, a copy should 
be given each boy and girl, to help remind 
them of what they are to write in their 
diaries. 

The teacher may^ask the class to bring 
in to the next meeting all the additional in- 
formation possible about the country just 
visited. She may call on certain ones to 
read their diaries and to show their pictures. 
There should be a geography lesson at each 
meeting. The route may be traced by a 
ribbon, attached to the wall map and pinned 
at the places visited. Jack and Janet should 
each have an around-the -world ticket, to be 
punched for attendance. There should be a 
Tourists' Bureau of Information. The boys 
in charge of it should wear red badges, their 
duties being to receive written questions and 
to see that these are answered at the next 
meeting. The class should be encouraged 
to learn the poems. 




Photograph by N. R. Waterbury. 

Street Scene in Cairo. 



TRAVEL 

I should like to rise and go 

Where the golden apples grow; — 

Where below another sky 

Parrot islands anchored lie, 

And, watched by cockatoos and goats, 

Lonely Crusoes building boats; — 

Where in sunshine reaching out 

Eastern cities, miles about, 

Are with mosque and minaret 

Among sandy gardens set, 

And the rich goods from near and far 

Hang for sale in the bazaar; — 

Where the Great Wall round China goes, 

And on one side the desert blows, 

And with bell and voice and drum, 

Cities on the other hum; — 

Where are forests, hot as fire, 

Wide as England, tall as a spire, 

Full of apes and cocoa-nuts 

And the negro hunters' huts; — 

Where the knotty crocodile 

Lies and blinks in the Nile, 

And the red flamingo flies 

Hunting fish before his eyes; — 

Where in jungles, near and far, 

Man-devouring tigers are, 

Lying close and giving ear 

Lest the hunt be drawing near, 

Or a com3r-by be seen 

Swinging in a palanquin; — 

Where among the desert sands 

Some deserted city stands, 

All its children, sweep and prince 

Grown to manhood ages since, 

Not a foot in street or house, 



Nof a stir of child or mouse, 
And when kindly falls the night, 
In all the town no spark of light, 
There I'll come when I'm a man 
With a camel caravan; 
Light a fire in the gloom 
Of some dusty dining-room; 
See the pictures on the walls, 
Heroes, fights and festivals; 
And in a corner find the toys 
Of the old Egyptian boys. 

ROBERT LOUIS STEVENSON* 



CHAPTER I. 

k OUT JDF THE NEW WORLD INTO THE OLD. 

IT was a bright October morning and Miss West 
was on her way to school. As she turned the cor- 
ner and came in sight of the building, a girl and 
boy, who had been watching for her, hurried down 
the steps to meet her. 

"O, Miss West, we aren't coming to school any 
more," they called to her, both talking at once in their 
excitement. "Why, Jack and Janet Howard, what do 
you mean? Why not?" asked Miss West, looking 
anxiously at the twins for signs of illness. "You tell, 
Janet," said Jack. "No, Jack, I know you want to," 
said Janet 

"Well, Miss West," explained Jack impressively, 
"we are not coming to school any more this year, be- 
cause we are going around the world. Father is over- 
tired and the doctor says he must take a long trip to 
avoid a breakdown. He has wanted for a long time 
to go around the world, but he will not go alone. 
Mother thought at first she couldn't go and leave us, 
but Father said, 'Why not take the twins? They are 
old enough to get a great deal out of such a trip.' So 
we are all going, and this is our last day at school, 
because we have got to pack our trunks to start next 
week." 

"How perfectly lovely 1" said Miss West, "and what 
a lot of geography you will know when you get home. 
Let's go in and tell the class just where you are going, 
so that they can look up the places on the map." 



12 AROUND THE WORLD 

"We'd love to," said Janet, "because we've just looked 
them up ourselves. Father traced the whole route for 
us last night in the atlas." 

As Miss West saw that there would be little interest 
that morning in anything but the twins' trip, she 
cleverly turned it into a thrilling geography lesson, 
which was easy to remember, because it was just like 
a story with Jack and Janet for hero and heroine. 

The next week was filled with preparations for the 
trip. On Sunday the twins said good-bye to their 
Sunday school superintendent. "We shall miss you," 
said Mr. Cole. "But how much you will have to tell 
us when you get home! I suppose you each have 
something that you will be especially interested in 
while you are away." "O, yes," said Janet. "Father 
is always interested in manufactures and industries, 
and Mother likes to see churches, schools and hospi- 
tals. Jack and I are going to find out about other 
boys and girls and how they live. We are taking our 
kodaks, so as to get all the pictures we can of them." 

The last good-byes were said and before they knew 
it the twins were on board a steamer on their way 
to Naples. Among the steamer packages from their 
friends was one from Miss West, containing two little 
diaries. There was a letter from her besides, wishing 
them a safe voyage and a good time. She asked Jack 
and Janet to write in their diaries every day, in order 
not to forget the interesting things they had seen. 

Jack was especially delighted with his diary, which 
just fitted his breast pocket. He looked very impor- 
tant pulling out his notebook and jotting things down. 

The voyage was twelve days long and very stormy. 
The Howards were glad to land at Naples, and almost 



WITH JACK AND JANET 13 

wished that they could stay instead of sailing on the 
very next day for Egypt. Three days later the steamer 
arrived at Alexandria. The wharf was crowded with 
natives and carriages. The Arabs leaped on board as 
fast as they could, shouting and gesticulating and 
offering their services (in broken English) as porters 
and guides. The din and hubbub were bewildering. 

In the midst of the general confusion a tall, hand^ 
some Arab, in a pale blue cashmere robe and red fez, 
came quietly toward Mr. Howard and handed him a 
letter. It was from a friend who lived in Egypt, 
answering an enquiry which Mr. Howard had made 
about a trustworthy dragoman or guide. The letter 
recommended the bearer, Ibrahim, so highly that Mr. 
Howard engaged him for the entire stay in Egypt. 
The twins were fascinated by the soft-voiced, defer- 
ential person, who had appeared as suddenly as people 
did in the Arabian Nights. They hoped that he was 
not going to disappear in the same way. After having 
their trunks examined in the custom house, they 
climbed into a train, divided into little compartments, 
one of which the family had to themselves. In about 
three hours they were sipping thick, sweet Turkish 
coffee from tiny bowls on the hotel terrace in Cairo. 

The terrace faced a narrow street, in which all sorts 
of people were passing. Young men in flowing 
abbayas of different colors, women in black robes, their 
faces veiled below the eyes, bearded men riding very 
fast on donkeys much too small for them, fan and 
bead-sellers, water and wine-sellers with shining brass 
jars of curious shapes, boys with trained monkeys, 
besides many dirty little children were some of the 
sights Jack and Janet saw. In the arcade across the 



14 AROUND THE WORLD 

way shopkeepers in fezes stood in the doorways of 
their tiny shops, urging tourists to buy. 

The elevator-boy, who wore a gorgeous red robe 
with a gold-embroidered sash, conducted the family 
to their rooms. Instead of chambermaids several dark- 
skinned, barefooted men in white brought water and 
towels and arranged the mosquito-netting that en- 
closed the beds, making them look like cages. 

The next morning Ibrahim was waiting on the ter- 
race to escort the party sight-seeing. Mrs. Howard 
had letters of introduction to some American mission- 
aries of the United Presbyterian Board and Mr. 
Howard thought it a good idea to present them the 
first thing. He said he didn't believe in showing 
patriotism by bragging about America to foreigners, 
but by taking an interest in your fellow countrymen 
and in what they are doing, even if you only have time 
to shake hands and say how do you do. 

Ibrahim called a carriage and gave an address to the 
coachman, who drove first to a beautiful white building 
in a lovely garden. Groups of girls were going in at 
the gate, some in dresses and hats like American girls 
and others in clinging black draperies with black silk 
veils covering the lower part of their faces. "What a 
beautiful place !" said Mrs. Howard. "It is the Ameri- 
can College for Girls, Madam," replied Ibrahim, step- 
ping down from the high front seat of the carriage. "I 
will wait outside." 

"Doubtless Jack and I are not admitted," said Mr. 
Howard. "While you make your visit, let us go over 
to the Nile Press and send the carriage back for you." 
So they separated, Janet and her mother going in at 
the gate and up the steps of the house. They were 



WITH JACK AND JANET 15 

met at the door by two charming American ladies, the 
principal and her assistant, who showed them the class- 
rooms full of attractive girls. "Why, they are reciting 
in English," said Janet. "Yes," said the principal. 
"They study Arabic as well, but since England has 
ruled Egypt, everyone is anxious to speak English. 
Earl Kitchener has governed wisely, encouraging edu- 
cation and treating the people like human beings instead 
of slaves." 

"What will these girls do after their graduation?" 
asked Mrs. Howard. "O, a great many will be teachers 
in different parts of Egypt and others will go to their 
homes and marry. Some of the girls are poor and 
supported by scholarships, but a number belong to 
wealthy and prominent families and will have great 
influence. The Moslems appreciate the high moral 
atmosphere of our school and sometimes they have to 
recognize the Christian standards that create it. A 
strict Moslem father called the other day and asked 
us to excuse his daughter from the Bible lesson and 
prayers. We said, 'There are other schools where this 
is not a requirement. Why not send her to one of 
these?' He answered that he liked the tone of our 
school. Then we explained that we could not excuse 
his daughter from these things, because they are just 
what give our school the high moral tone which he 
values." 

Just as Mrs. Howard was about to leave, two beau- 
tiful and elegant Egyptian ladies in European dress 
entered to call on the principal. Their conversation 
soon showed how wonderful Christianity seems to 
people who have not always known about it. They 



16 AROUND THE WORLD 

talked about what was uppermost in their minds, — 
their Christian ideals. 

The younger of the two ladies told how, after grad- 
uation, she had gone home to her father's palace on 
the banks of the Nile eager to help others. She began 
by teaching the servants and farm hands to read and 
by giving them Bible lessons. Then she persuaded 
her father to let her go in his dahabeah or house- 
boat to villages along the Nile to teach the people. 
She advises them to send their children away to school, 
since there are no schools in these villages. She hopes 
to get classmates, who have become teachers, to help 
her start some. 

Janet wanted to stay and hear more about the work 
of these lovely young women, but the carriage had 
returned and Mrs. Howard thought it time to rejoin 
Mr. Howard and Jack. When she reached the Press, 
Janet found Jack absorbed in watching the printing of 
books and papers in Arabic. Mr. Howard was talking 
with Dr. Zwemer, who has charge of the printing 
house, which makes Arabic books and magazines to 
send all over the world. Dr. Zwemer belongs to the 
Dutch Reformed Church, but is working for all denomi- 
nations. He is a great scholar, and writes and lectures 
in Arabic. He has quite won the hearts of the Mos- 
lems, who flock to his meetings. 

Dr. Zwemer was telling Mr. Howard a story about 
the courage of the Moslems. One who had become a 
Christian preacher had aroused a great deal of enmity 
by leaving his old faith. He knew that his life was in 
danger. One day, just as he was going into a meeting 
to speak, an anonymous letter was handed to him, 
which said that if he did not stop teaching the Chris- 




Photograph by N. R. Waterhury. 

Egyptian Boy with a Load of Fodder. 



WITH JACK AND JANET 17 

tian faith he would be killed on the spot. He did not 
hesitate a moment, but walked up to the platform 
and read the letter aloud to the meeting. Then he 
bared his chest and said, "I am not afraid. If the 
person who wrote that letter is present, let him shoot 
now." Nothing happened and he preached without 
interruption. 

On the way back to the hotel Ibrahim called Jack's 
attention to colored drawings of carts and trains over 
the doorways of some of the whitewashed houses. 
"The drawings show that people in those houses have 
been to Mecca," said Ibrahim, "and they have made a 
picture of the way they went. The pilgrims who took 
the Holy Carpet to Mecca return today. Tomorrow 
there will be a procession and I will take you to see it." 

As they had reached the hotel, Jack did not have 
time then to ask Ibrahim more about the Holy Carpet, 
but he asked his father at tea-time. 

"And then will you tell me," said Janet, "just what a 
Moslem is?" "Perhaps I'd better answer Janet's ques- 
tion first," said Mr. Howard. "A Moslem is a follower 
of the religion that Mahomet founded, called Islam 
or submission to the will of God. The word Moslem 
means one who has submitted." 

"Then Moslems are the same as Mohammedans," 
said Jack. "How did Mahomet happen to found a 
religion? How long ago did he live?" 

"Mahomet lived about thirteen centuries ago," said 
Mr. Howard, "in Mecca, Arabia. The Arabs at that 
time were idolatrous. While at first they worshipped 
only the sun, moon and stars, they had come to wor- 
ship animals, trees and stones. The Black Stone in 
the Kaaba Temple at Mecca was especially sacred. 



18 AROUND THE WORLD 

When Mahomet was a small boy, his parents died 
and his uncle brought him up. Once he took him as 
camel-boy with his caravan to Jerusalem, where he 
heard a great deal about Christianity and about the 
one true God. He remembered these stories and they 
greatly influenced his later life. One day he thought 
an angel appeared to him in a cave and called him to be 
the prophet of God and turn his people away from 
idols. The people of Mecca, however, laughed at the 
idea and for thirteen years they persecuted him. At 
the end of that time he left Mecca with a few followers 
and went to Medina, a place about two hundred miles 
away on the other side of the desert. From that time 
on he began to gain followers in great numbers. The 
flight to Medina is called the Hegira, and took place 
in 622 A. D. Moslems reckon time from this date. 
The trouble with Mahomet was that he started with 
the right idea that there is one true God, but he in- 
vented a great many wrong ideas. In the first place, 
he put himself next to God in importance and taught 
that God is a terrible being, who wants the world won 
for him by force instead of love. The sword is called 
the key of heaven by Moslems, and they believe that 
it is right to kill everyone who refuses to accept their 
religion. So Mahomet and his followers went out 
to conquer the world. Their faith spread rapidly. 
Today it is the religion of one-eighth of the world; 
Although Moslems say that they are not idolatrous, 
they still worship the Black Stone at Mecca. 

"Now we come to the Holy Carpet, Jack. The 
temple built around the Black Stone is hung with black 
silk curtains, embroidered with prayers from the Koran, 
which is the Moslems' sacred book, containing the 



WITH JACK AND JANET 19 

teachings of Mahomet, collected after his death. The 
Holy Carpet is not a carpet but a set of curtains for 
the Kaaba Temple, which the Khedive of Egypt sends 
each year as a state offering to Mecca. The many 
pilgrims, who go with it, come back very important 
people. The robe worn by each one on the journey is 
holy and is put away to be used as a shroud." 

"Before the Moslems conquered Egypt, were there 
any Christians there?" asked Janet. "Yes, there was 
the Alexandrine Church, said to have been founded by 
St. Mark. There is a small body of Christians still in 
Egypt, called the Coptic Church, which is an out- 
growth of the church at Alexandria, but it has become 
very corrupt. Coptic is just another word for Egyp- 
tian, but it is generally used with reference to the 
Coptic Christians." 

Just then the musical sound of a voice chanting in 
the distance was borne faintly into the room. It was 
the call to prayer, which is repeated five times a day by 
the muezzins or priests from the tops of all the minarets. 
Jack ran to the window and beckoned to his father and 
Janet. There, underneath, knelt an old man praying. 

"He is facing Mecca," said Mr. Howard, "and saying 
the prayer he says five times every day, 'Allah is great, 
Allah is the one true God and Mohammed is his 
prophet/ " 

The man finished his prayer, and rolling up the little 
rug on which he had been kneeling, went away. As the 
twins turned from the window, they saw Ibrahim come 
into the room with a man selling beads. Janet and her 
mother went over to see them and selected a lovely 
long string of amber. "That is a Moslem rosary," said 



20 AROUND THE WORLD 

Ibrahim. "There are ninety-nine beads for the ninety- 
nine beautiful names of Allah." 

The next morning Ibrahim took the family, as he 
had promised, to see the procession. The pilgrims 
walked behind the camel palanquin, that had carried 
the Holy Carpet to Mecca, and the Khedive rode in a 
carriage in the procession, accompanied by a body- 
guard of soldiers on horseback. The number of ob- 
servers was so great that it was difficult to see the 
pilgrims, but the crowd itself was very interesting, as 
it was composed of people of many nationalities in all 
sorts of costumes. 

After the procession there was just time to go to the 
Citadel, where there is a famous mosque and a fine 
view of the city. The Mosque of Mohammed AH is 
spacious, clean and still. Many plain crystal lamps 
hang in a circle from the ceiling. Pilgrims quietly 
unroll their prayer-rugs and kneel to pray. The 
visitors watched reverently for a few moments and 
then went out to look at the city, bristling with the 
minarets of its many mosques, spread out beneath 
them. 

In the afternoon Dr. Watson, who has been a mis- 
sionary of the United Presbyterian Board for fifty 
years, called to take the Howards to see the pyramids 
and the sphynx at Gizeh, just outside the city. The 
twins rode camels and had great fun. The pyramids 
are very impressive, standing in the sand on the edge 
of the desert. Far away on the horizon are others, 
built in steps and called the Step Pyramids of Sakkara. 

On the way home Dr. Watson stopped to show Jack 
and Janet a typical village. The houses were built of 
mud and huddled together like chicken coops. Chick- 




Photograph hi/ N. 7?. Waterbrtrp. 

Egyptian Village Girl. 



WITH JACK AND JANET 21 

ens actually were living on the flat roofs. There were 
flies everywhere, even sticking in clusters around the 
eyes of the dirty children. "How can people live in 
such stuffy little houses?" said Janet. "These people 
stay out of doors most of the time with the donkeys, 
camels, buffalo and black sheep," said Dr. Watson. 
"Isn't it fortunate that the climate allows them to do 
so?" The fellahin or villagers, who were at home, 
gi eeted the missionary pleasantly. "This is a contrast 
to former days," he remarked. "The Moslems often 
insulted us as we passed through the streets. Now 
they realize that we are their friends." 

The next morning Ibrahim took the family to the 
Muski, a street full of native shops with open fronts, 
where the twins bought Turkish delight and costumes. 
Then he took them into one of the mosques of the! 
great Moslem University, El Azhar, where thirteen 
thousand students study the Koran. At the door 
squatted a man in white, wearing a fez, who rose 
to give them some big felt slippers before they 
entered. Inside there is a large, square courtyard, 
surrounded by an arcade, supported by pillars. On 
the ground at the base of each pillar sits a teacher, 
with a group of boys learning the Koran. They study 
it all day long, committing it to memory. No mathe- 
matics or science is taught in this university, — nothing 
but the Koran. Suddenly the babel of voices in the 
courtyard ceased as a voice from somewhere high 
above came down to them. Every Moslem dropped on 
his knees, facing southward toward Mecca. Ibrahim 
led his party quickly out into the street. 

In the afternoon Jack and Janet went with their 
mother to visit two American schools. The buildings 



22 AROUND THE WORLD 

were poor and small, but the children were clean, and 
were interested and absorbed in their lessons. In the 
class in mental arithmetic the examples were not easy, 
but the boys in the little red fezes gave the answers 
promptly. "There is some sense in this school," said 
Jack. "The boys are certainly learning more useful 
things and they look brighter, somehow, than those 
boys dreaming over at El Azhar this morning." 

As Ibrahim insisted that one of the most interesting 
sights in Cairo, is the collection of mummies, statues 
and hieroglyphics in the Museum, Mr. and Mrs. 
Howard followed his advice and spent a morning there. 
Ibrahim could read the picture-writing and he ex- 
plained the treasures of the Museum most vividly. 
Before leaving Mr. Howard bought a necklace of 
mummy beads and a scarab, both several thousand 
years old. 

On returning to the hotel, Mr. Howard found a letter 
from an old friend, the one who had sent him Ibrahim, 
inviting the family to visit him in Assiut. He said that 
his son was about Jack's age and that his little daugh- 
ter could hardly wait to see the twins. He hoped that 
they would all come soon and stay as long as possible. 
After reading the letter, Mr. Howard proposed leaving 
Cairo at once for Luxor, to remain for a few days, and 
from there coming back to Assiut. Ibrahim went to 
engage a sleeping compartment on the train that even- 
ing, and the afternoon was spent in packing. On the 
sleeper that night, although the windows were tightly 
shut, sand sifted in, for the train was going through 
the desert all the way. In the morning, when Jack and 
Janet looked out, they could see nothing but sand and 



WITH JACK AND JANET 23 

an occasional palm tree. Once they passed a caravan 
of camels. 

After rushing Cairo, Luxor was peaceful and quiet. 
The hotel faced the Nile, whose picturesque craft 
interested the twins. They went to the river-bank 
every evening to watch them, but their eyes often 
wandered beyond the boats to the mysterious desert 
and the cloudless red sunsets. 

Ibrahim arranged several pleasant excursions. The 
one the twins enjoyed most was a donkey-ride into the 
desert on the other side of the Nile. On this ride 
to the buried city of Thebes, where an Englishman, 
by digging, has discovered the tombs of the kings of 
ancient Egypt, Jack and Janet saw all sorts of inter- 
esting sights. In the dry fields near the river, camels 
and buffaloes were walking slowly round and round 
the rude wells, turning the wheels, which bring the 
water from the Nile into the fields for irrigation. The 
corn and sugar-cane crops looked withered and brown, 
and there was very little grass for the flocks of black 
sheep, which women and children were tending. It 
was fun to meet the children, who passed on donkeys 
and camels with loads of straw and corn. They smiled 
in a friendly way at the twins, who snapped pictures 
of them. 

The road through the desert became more and more 
desolate. Finally the party came to a defile between 
yellow rocks, which Ibrahim said was the entrance to 
the tombs. These are large rooms buried deep under 
the ground. The walls are covered with colored pic- 
tures and writing, which describe the great deeds of 
the kings, whose mummies were found there. Going 
back a different way, the Howards passed the Colossi 



24 AROUND THE WORLD 

of Memnoh, a gigantic pair of seated stone figures, 
which look solemn and lonely all by themselves in the 
desert. 

There are two famous ruins in Luxor, the Temples 
of Luxor and Karnak. The beautiful columns of the 
great Temple of Karnak, and the wonderful avenue 
of sphynxes leading up to the pylon or gateway, are 
among the marvelous sights of the world. 

While driving home from there one day, the carriage 
passed a school. The sign over the door was in Eng- 
lish. "That must be where the donkey boys told me 
they learn English," said Jack. "See the boys playing 
ball in the playground. Do let's stop a minute to 
watch them." As the carriage waited, Janet noticed 
another sign on a house a few doors away. Looking 
over the gateway into the garden, she saw girls playing 
tag. An American lady, who was with the girls, in- 
vited her to step in a minute. The lady said that both 
these schools belong to the mission of the United 
Presbyterian Church. She let Janet peep in at the 
sewing classes and showed her the shelves in a cool 
spot against the garden wall, where the girls may drink 
by tipping the jars, that lie there full of fresh water for 
those who are hot and thirsty. Little girls, who were 
mischievously climbing up to drink from the jars on 
the top shelf, intended for older and taller people, 
scrambled down quickly at the sound of footsteps. 

Early one morning the Howards started for Assiut, 
which is a large, prosperous town on the Nile north of 
Luxor. Arriving there in the afternoon, they were met 
by Dr. McClennahan, who is president of the American 
college for boys. This college belongs to the United 
Presbyterian Mission. It has seven hundred students 



WITH JACK AND JANET 25 

and a number of fine young professors from America. 
There Jack met Bob McClennahan, coming out of a 
class with some Egyptian boys. 

"I wanted to come to the station," said Bob, "but I 
couldn't cut this class. You see I am preparing for 
college in America and I have to study." 

"Do you like the boys?" asked Jack. "Can you 
have any fun with them? I should think it would be 
lonesome with no American boys." 

"It isn't a bit," said Bob. "The fellows are great, 
and so bright that it's pretty hard to keep up with 
them. Some are good athletes, too. Come and see 
our athletic field. We have fine games there." Jack 
was interested in the game of cricket that was going 
on, and enjoyed talking with Bob's friends, who spoke 
good English. 

In the meantime Dr. McClennahan had taken Mr. 
Howard to see the beautiful church, which is filled on 
Sundays, and to the hospital, a large building with sev- 
eral American doctors. "The hospital pays for itself 
now," said the head doctor. "It gives us a good chance 
to preach to the people. After we have straightened 
out their bodies, they begin to believe in our religion." 

As the two men left the hospital, Mr. Howard said 
he had been wondering whether it was good for an 
American boy like Bob to be there, studying with the 
Egyptian boys. "O, yes," said Dr. McClennahan. 
"We are glad Bob is here. Assiut is not like other 
cities. So many of the people have studied in our 
schools and so many are Christians that it has a Chris- 
tian atmosphere. It is good for Bob to see the con- 
trast between this city and others in Egypt. He will 
appreciate America all the more after his life in Egypt. 



26 AROUND THE WORLD 

He is so interested in the students that he goes out 
with them on Sundays to teach in the villages." 

Just then Mrs. McClennahan drove up with Mrs. 
Howard and Janet. Janet was eager to tell about the 
wonderful schools she had seen in two old palaces. 
Two Egyptian gentlemen, both Christians, lived in 
them until the city grew so large that they decided to 
build new palaces out by the river. As they did not 
want to sell the old ones, one gentleman established a 
school for boys and the other a school for girls, and 
they pay all the expense of getting teachers from 
America. "We met the wives and daughters of the 
gentlemen," said Janet. "They visit the schools often 
and go to see the children in their homes." 

"Their interest has done more good than anything I 
know of," said Dr. McClennahan. "The people say 
that if these rich and influential people take such a 
personal interest in their children all on account of 
their religion, it must be worth something." 

It was with great regret that the family parted with 
the McClennahans to go to Port Said, where the 
steamer for Ceylon called and took them farther on 
their long journey. 




WITH JACK AND JANET 27 



QUESTIONS ON CHAPTER I. 

1. Where is Egypt? What sort of country is it as 
to climate, soil, vegetation? 

2. What is a Moslem? Tell what you can about 
the religion called Islam. 

3. What is the Coptic Church? 

4. Compare a Moslem education and a Christian 
education. What is El Azhar? 

5. Describe an Egyptian village. 

6. What do you think are the two best characteris- 
tics of the Moslems? 

7. What is the trouble with the religion of 
Mahomet? 

8. What is Christianity doing for Egypt? 

9. What American missions did the Howards see 
in Egypt? 

10. What Bible stories do you know about Egypt? 




Hhotograph hy Plate A Co., Ceylon. 

Climbing for Cocoanuts. 



CEYLON * 

Oh, this beautiful island of Ceylon! 
With the cocoanut trees on the shore; 
It is shaped like a pear with the peel on, 
And Kandy lies in at the core. 

And Kandy is sweet (you ask Gertie!) 
Even when it is spelt with a K, 
And the people are cheerful and dirty, 
And dress in a comical way. 

Here comes a particular dandy, 
With two ear-rings and half of a shirt, 
He's considered the swell of all Kandy, 
And the rest of turn's covered with dirt, 

And here comes the belle of the city, 
With rings on her delicate toes, 
And eyes that are painted and pretty, 
And a jewel that shakes in her nose. 

And the dear little girls and their brothers, 
And the babies so jolly and fat, 
Astride on the hips of their mothers, 
And as black as a gentleman's hat. 

And the queer little heaps of old women, 
And the shaven Buddhistical priests, 
And the lake which the worshippers swim in, 
And the wagons with curious beasts. 

The tongue they talk mostly is Tamul, 
Which sounds you can hardly tell how, 
It is half like the scream of a camel, 
And half like the grunt of a sow. 

PHILLIPS BROOKS. 

' These veraes are part of a letter from Ceylon to a niece in America. "Gertie' 

3 her sister. 



CHAPTER II. 

SPICY BREEZES AND PALMY PLAINS. 

THE departure from Port Said was made at night, 
while the passengers were asleep. When the 
twins went on deck the next morning, the 
steamer was in the Suez Canal, moving so 
slowly that she seemed to be standing still. On either 
side stretched the desert. Along the banks Arabs 
were busily digging to keep the sand from caving in. 
It was interesting at first to watch the natives and to 
wave to them, but the slow progress grew tiresome. 
Several times the big vessel went aground in the shal- 
low water and tugs came to her rescue, but in spite of 
delays she reached Suez at sunset. 

There was great excitement on shore over the 
steamer's arrival. Swarms of Arabs rowed out to sell 
ostrich feathers and Turkish delight to the passengers. 
Others brought the mail bags and fresh vegetables. 
There was even greater excitement on board the boat 
over her departure and entrance into the Red Sea. "It 
might well be called the Red Hot Sea, for we always 
have sultry weather here," said an old traveller to Mr. 
Howard. "The air loses its life and the heat becomes 
oppressive." 

After three days the steamer stopped at Aden, where 
at first there seemed to be nothing but red rocks and a 
lighthouse. In an instant, however, hordes of natives 
appeared from behind the rocks. They hurried away 
from shore in little boats, each trying to reach the 
steamer first. Some of the passengers, who were 



32 AROUND THE WORLD 

crowded along the deck rail, let down strings, to which 
the natives attached bags. In these, beads, baskets 
and ostrich eggs were sent up on approval. Prices 
were agreed upon by signs, and the money was re- 
turned in the bags. This kind of shopping was great 
fun, but after an hour or two, everyone was glad to 
leave the shouting natives and to sail on into the 
Indian Ocean. 

People now settled down to enjoy the voyage. Jack 
and Janet made friends among the other children and 
played deck games with them. Often the boys and 
girls stopped in the middle of a game to watch the 
flying-fish, that look exactly like flocks of tiny birds, 
until they fold their wings and dive into the water. 
The sun grew hotter and the moon brighter as the 
boat steamed toward Ceylon. On the eighth day after 
leaving Aden she landed the passengers, who were not 
bound for Australia, at Colombo. Mr. and Mrs. 
Howard and the twins put on their pith hats and 
smoked glasses and, raising their green umbrellas to 
keep out every ray of the dangerous sun, went ashore. 
They were whisked over to the railroad station in 
rickshaws and were soon in the train for Kandy. 

Ceylon is one of the most beautiful islands in the 
world. As the train climbed the mountains, Jack and 
Janet were enchanted by the tropical scenery. There 
were terraced paddy or rice fields, tea-plants with 
dark, glossy leaves, tall cocoanut palms, feathery bam- 
boos and jack-fruit, bread-fruit and rubber trees. Big, 
clumsy water buffaloes were wallowing in the rivers. 
A hurricane had flooded the fields, and the merry 
brown children were going about on rafts. At the 
stations natives came to the car windows with tray 



WITH JACK AND JANET 33 

of oranges, little bananas called plantains, and king 
cocoanuts with smooth, yellow shells. Mr. Howard 
bought a king cocoanut and opened it so that the 
family might enjoy the refreshing milk. 

At one station the twins noticed a man wearing an 
orange robe and holding an enormous palm-leaf fan 
before his face. A little boy walked behind with a 
v/ooden bowl. "I am sure he is a Buddhist priest," 
said Mrs. Howard. "I have read about them and that 
is the way they dress. The big fan is to keep him 
from looking on the face of a woman. The boy must 
be the priest's servant, carrying his begging-bowl. 
There are a great many Buddhists in Ceylon." 

"Are Buddhists anything like Moslems?" asked 
Janet. "No," said Mrs. Howard. "Buddhism is a 
much older religion than Islam. Gautama or 'the 
Buddha,' which is one of his titles, meaning 'the 
Enlightened One,' lived in India about five hundred 
years before Christ, a thousand years before Mahomet. 
He is said to have sat for six years under a Bo tree,' 
meditating on the meaning of life. His final decision 
was that there is no God. His highest idea of happi- 
ness was a state of absence of feeling, known as 
Nirvana. To reach Nirvana he said it is necessary 
first of all to do right and to be charitable in this life, 
in order to atone for your sins in past lives. Then, 
after many other lives as animals or insects or people, 
it may be possible after thousands of years to reach 
Nirvana. If you are wicked in this life, you will cer- 
tainly be punished in the next, but the hope of ever 
reaching Nirvana is pretty small for most people. 
What hope is there for any of us, without a God? It 



34 AROUND THE WORLD 

is human to sin and we need a higher power to forgive 
our sins and to help us to resist temptation." 

At nightfall the train reached Kandy and the trav- 
ellers went to the hotel facing the tank, a large, square 
lake, shaded by trees. For dinner they had rice and 
curry with plantains, creamed bamboo stalks that 
tasted like white asparagus, and preserved bamboo 
served by the strangest looking waiters in white cotton 
coats and skirts. Jack and Janet could not believe 
that they were men, for they looked just like old women 
with their long hair done in a tight knot behind and 
their round tortoise-shell combs. 

That evening a queer chanting and beating of drums 
was heard and Jack found out that a devil dance was 
going on outside. The hotel proprietor explained that 
this is an ancient religious rite, a remnant of Animism 
or spirit-worship, which the young chiefs of Kandy 
like to keep up. The performers wore grotesque masks 
and bright-colored skirts and jackets. The dancing in 
the smoky torchlight was strange and uncanny. 

The next morning at seven o'clock chota hazri or 
first breakfast of fruit, toast and tea was brought to the 
room. Later a more substantial breakfast was served 
in the dining-room. Then a carriage came to take the 
party sight-seeing. Mrs. Howard asked the hotel 
proprietor if there were any missions in Kandy. As 
he knew of none, the carriage started on the way 
to "Lady Horton's Drive." "I am sorry not to see 
any missions here," said Mrs. Howard. "My mother 
was so interested in the work of the Congregational 
Women's Society in Ceylon. When I was a child, she 
told me about Eliza Agnew, the first single woman 
missionary to Asia. The story impressed me, because 



WITH JACK AND JANET 35 

Miss Agnew was only a little girl of eight when she 
made up her mind to become a missionary. Some- 
thing her teacher said in school about the people of 
India and Ceylon gave her an idea that she would 
like to go and help them some day. When she was 
grown up, she had not changed her mind and the Con- 
gregationalists sent her out here to be at the head of a 
girls' boarding school at Uduvil, in the Jaffna Penin- 
sula. We shall not have time to go up there. The 
school must be ninety years old now. There are so 
many graduates, that the people of Ceylon speak of 
Miss Agnew as 'mother of a thousand daughters.' Miss 
Howland is principal at present. I read not long ago 
that one little girl had come to the school from Naina- 
tive, a small island west of Jaffna. The inhabitants of 
the island are Hindus, who worship the cobra. Their 
cobra temple is so famous that hundreds of thousands 
of Hindus come to it in June to celebrate a festival in 
honor of the deadly snake. When the little girl went 
away with her father in a boat, the people lamented. 
They said harm would befall her, because she was the 
first girl who had ever left the island. She came back 
so happy and so improved that other girls began to 
wish that they might go to school. Now there is a 
little school on the island, supported by the missionary 
society of the native Christian women of Jaffna. 
The Uduvil school girls have mite-boxes and like to 
feel that they, too, are helping the island girls." 

Just then Janet interrupted her mother to say that 
she believed there was a mission in Kandy after all, 
because she saw a sign, which read C. M. S. Mission 
House. It pointed to a pretty bungalow, with hang- 
ing baskets of maidenhair on the veranda. A tall 



36 AROUND THE WORLD 

young Englishman in riding-clothes was striding down 
the path. In answer to Mr. Howard's inquiry, he said 
that he was a missionary of the Church of England to 
the Tamil coolies, who come from India to work on 
the Ceylon tea and rubber estates. He said that some 
of the planters have schools on their estates for the 
children of the workmen and have asked him to teach 
the Bible classes. He was about to ride out to a 
plantation six miles away. Mr. and Mrs. Howard 
were astonished to hear that there are about five thou- 
sand Tamil Christians in Kandy, who the year before 
gave out of their small earnings fourteen thousand 
rupees (nearly $5,000), to support their churches. 
Several sons of Kandyan chiefs have become Christians 
and attend Trinity College, a fine school, which the 
Church Missionary Society supports. 

The missionary was obliged to hurry away to his 
coolies and the Howard family continued their drive. 
The winding road is beautiful, with glimpses through 
the trees of the shining tank in the valley below. The 
Kandyans, who were out walking, looked extremely 
clean, as if they had taken advantage of the abundance 
of water in the recent flood. In front of several native 
huts mothers were bathing brown babies in tin bath- 
tubs. 

After tiffin, Mr. Howard ordered the carriage for a 
drive to the Shrine of Buddha's Tooth and to the 
Peradynia Gardens. The shrine was so crowded with 
dirty pilgrims and begging priests that the family did 
not care to stay there long. "That tooth is a big fake," 
said Jack with disgust, as the carriage drove away. 
"It is certainly of miraculous size," said Mrs. Howard. 
"I don't see why people should make such a fuss over a 



WITH JACK AND JANET 37 

tooth anyway," said Janet. "I suspect that Buddhists, 
after all, feel the need of worship and have taken 
Buddha for their god," Mr. Howard remarked. 

The drive through the Botanical Gardens was a visit 
to Wonderland. There the twins saw avenues of 
cabbage-palms and royal-palms and many varieties 
of bamboo. Black creatures, larger than squirrels, 
skimmed through the air high over their heads. These 
were flying foxes. In the spice garden the guardian 
allowed the party to pick leaves from the cinnamon 
and clove trees and to carry away a fruit that seemed 
like a peach, but which, when opened, was found to 
contain something that looked like a horse-chestnut, 
with scarlet tracery all over it. Hidden away in the 
centre of the fruit was a nutmeg. 

The drive ended at the Peradynia Station, where the 
family took the train back to Colombo. An English 
tea-planter, who rode in the same compartment, pointed 
out a mountain, called Adam's Mount, which he said 
is a place of pilgrimage for three religions. Somebody 
once discovered a footprint in a rock up there, which 
Buddhists think is Gautama's, but Mohammedans call 
it Mohammed's, and Christians say that it is Adam's. 

At Colombo there was only time for a short rick- 
shaw ride before going on board the little steamer, 
which sails every night for Tuticorin, India. A month 
or two later the crossing might have been made by rail 
from the north of the island, but the bridge was not 
quite finished. The children's main impressions were 
of rose-colored soil, numberless grey crows, and in- 
tense heat. Colombo is only eight degrees from the 
Equator. They also noticed many shops of precious 
stones and wood and ivory carvings. 



38 AROUND THE WORLD 

On the boat that night Mr. and Mrs. Howard's seats 
at dinner were next to the Captain, who surprised 
everyone by rising and asking a blessing. The Cap- 
tain was very friendly. After dinner he invited the 
whole family to come up on the bridge and see his cozy 
room. There he told them about his ship. "We carry 
hundreds of Tamil coolies from India to Ceylon," said 
Captain Carre. "After my conversion, I saw that here 
was a great opportunity to help large numbers of 
people, for there is a different set every trip. A man, 
who speaks Tamil, goes below decks with me every 
night and talks to the coolies and we give them pic- 
tures and Bible stories, which an English lady pays 
for. This is called the 'Gospel Ship* because I say 
grace at dinner. After discovering in the printed rules 
cf the British India Steamship Company that one of 
the duties of the captain is to say grace before meals, 
my conscience would not rest until I obeyed, although 
it is a dead-letter rule. It took all my courage, for 
no one likes to be ridiculed." 

Early in the morning the "Bangala" landed her pas- 
sengers in a tender at Tuticorin. Some poor, thin 
coolies, waiting on the pier, piled enormous quantities 
of baggage on their heads and carried it to the train 
platform. There the custom-house officials examined 
it and the coolies put it on the train for Madura, where 
the Howards arrived six hours later. Mr. Howard's 
friend, Dr. Chandler, had invited the family to stay at 
his house in the American Board compound. The 
drive from the station to the compound was most excit- 
ing. The streets were swarming with people. The 
men and women were wrapped in gay cloths, bordered 
with gilt or contrasting colors. Caste marks were 



WITH JACK AND JANET 39 

painted on their foreheads. The children wore brace- 
lets, anklets, and nose, toe and earrings to make up 
for lack of clothing. The coachman, in a red turban, 
stood and shouted, as he drove, to keep people from 
getting under his horse's feet. When the crowds were 
thickest, he had to jump out and lead the horse. 

On their arrival at the house, Mrs. Chandler gave 
Mr. and Mrs. Howard tea, and Dr. Chandler showed 
the twins his typewriter that writes Tamil. Two 
moonshees or Indian scholars were working in the 
study, helping with the new Tamil dictionary, which 
Dr. Chandler is making. 

After tea Mrs. Chandler took Jack and Janet to see 
the great Madura Temple. It is one of the few Hindu 
temples open to visitors and one of the finest. In the 
outer corridors are bazaars, where people may buy 
presents for themselves or to offer to the images of 
the gods inside. Flower sellers sit on the ground, 
twisting jasmine and marigold blossoms into garlands, 
and bracelet sellers are busy fitting glass bangles on 
women and children. Janet watched a child having a 
bracelet put on. The little hand was kneaded first to 
make it squeeze through the smallest size possible. 
The poor little thing cried with the pain. Beyond 
is the sacred tank, in which are reflected the great, 
gilded, pyramidal gateways, which are covered with 
carvings of gods and goddesses. Inside the temple are 
images of the gods, to which people pray and bring 
gifts. When the guests were ready to leave the 
temple several fat, well-kept cows stood before the 
door and prevented them from getting to the street. 
"Those are the sacred cows," said Mrs. Chandler. 
"We must not on any account interfere with them. 



40 AROUND THE WORLD 

The priests would be furious. Well just have to wait 
until they see fit to get out of our way." 

As soon as the cows permitted, Mrs. Chandler drove 
to another part of the city to show the twins a beauti- 
ful tank. In the centre there is an island on which an 
image of a god is kept in a shrine. On certain occa- 
sions the image is put into a boat and taken, with great 
ceremony, to call on its relatives, the other gods and 
goddesses. By this time it was growing so dark that 
Mrs. Chandler drove through the lighted bazaar home 
to dinner. All through the meal a punkah swayed to 
and fro over the table, to stir the air and blow away 
mosquitoes. Now and then a noise, like the scolding 
of a squirrel, rang through the room. It seemed to 
come from behind a picture on the wall, but the twins 
could see only a lizard darting to catch a mosquito on 
its tongue. Mrs. Chandler smiled. "He is a noisy 
little fellow," she said, "but very useful. In India in- 
stead of having glass or screens in our windows, we 
depend on the lizards and bats to free our houses of 
insects." "Do you have trouble with white ants here?" 
asked Mrs. Howard. "Indeed we do," replied Mrs. 
Chandler. "Did you notice that your trunks were set 
on bricks to raise them above the floor? That is to 
keep the ants from eating through the bottom and 
getting at your clothing. They always work in the 
dark and build themselves mud tunnels to travel in." 
"I believe I saw some of those on the trunks of trees 
from the train windows today," said Jack. "Those 
earth-castles in the fields must have been the ant-hills." 

The next morning Janet went with her mother to 
see Dr. Parker's hospital, the only one for women 
within a radius of four hundred miles. A great many 




Copyright Wiete and Klein, Madras. 

A Little Tamil Girl. 



WITH JACK AND JANET 41 

mothers were there with sick babies. Some of the 
babies were receiving doses of castor oil from the 
native nurses. Others were waiting for the doctor. 
Dr. Parker left her assistant, an Indian lady, in charge 
of the clinic while she took the guests through the 
wards. The patients all smiled as the frail, gentle, 
little doctor passed their beds. 

"Our building is old and crowded," she said, "but 
we hope to have a better one soon. Would you like 
to see my Birds' Nest?" she asked Janet, leading the 
way into the garden. "Here are two little birds now." 
She picked up one of the two children, who had come 
running toward her, and carried him astride her hip as 
the native mothers carry their children. 

"You see," she explained, "I was like the old woman 
who lived in a shoe. I had so many children given to 
me that I didn't know what to do, and so I built 'The 
Birds' Nest.' It is just a row of little one-room, 
native houses built under the trees in my garden. 
Then I found a nice Christian woman to care for the 
children. They eat and sleep on the floor, native fash- 
ion." By this time she had reached the little houses 
with a sign, "The Birds' Nest," in front. A dozen) 
birds flew out to meet her. "We should have brought 
something to feed them," said Janet. "We'll give the 
native woman some money," answered her mother, "to 
provide a feast for them tomorrow." Janet and her 
mother then returned to Dr. Chandler's house for tiffin. 

Mr. Howard and Jack, who had been visiting the 
men's hospital, were enthusiastic over the fine, new 
building. "The silk weavers of Madura gave it to Dr. 
Van Alen," said Jack, "and they pay besides to be 
taken care of in it." Miss Swift's industrial school and 



42 AROUND THE WORLD 

the girls' and boys' high schools were closed for the 
Christmas holidays. The twins were sorry not to see 
the boys and girls, but were glad that they have such 
fine school buildings. 

The next day at noon, the family started for the 
hills, where they were invited to spend Christmas on 
a coffee plantation. The first night was spent on the 
train, which was not like a sleeper in America. In 
India you have to take your own pillows, sheets and 
mattrasses, and your own man-servant to make up your 
bed and attend to the sahman or luggage, because there 
are no porters on the trains. At three o'clock in the 
morning Jack and Janet rubbed their eyes, for it was 
time to get up. They stumbled over some natives, 
sleeping on the station platform, and swallowed a hasty 
chota of smoky toast and tea, made on a charcoal 
brazier by a native in the waiting-room. Then they 
scrambled into a jutka with their mother and father. 
A jutka is a two-wheeled cart without springs or seats, 
drawn by bullocks. The persons, who ride in it, 
recline on cushions and straw on the floor and try to 
keep from hitting the matting top and sides of the cart 
as it jolts along. 

The road was shaded by great banyan trees, from 
whose branches big grey monkeys with long tails 
peered soberly down at the travellers. The monkeys 
looked so wise that Jack and Janet did not think it 
strange that in India, where people think that animals 
are gods, the god of wisdom should be the monkey. 
His name is Hanuman, and there are many funny 
stories about him in the sacred books. Once he wanted 
to cross from India to Ceylon and the monkeys linked 
themselves together by their tails to make a bridge for 



WITH JACK AND JANET 43 

him. At one place beside the road, the twins saw a 
monkey shrine, a little house where a priest lives and 
receives offerings for the monkeys. In front of the 
huts by the roadside, people were cooking their break- 
fasts of rice-water over fires of cow dung. Others 
were starting out to work in the dim morning light, 
with bundles on their heads. Soon there was another 
shrine with a row of crude, wooden horses, gaudily 
painted, standing guard in front. At the end of the 
banyan avenue a group of coolies stood with chairs to 
carry the party up the ghat or mountain. The so- 
called chair is nothing but a strip of canvas fastened 
securely to two stout bamboo poles. Four coolies raise 
the poles upon their shoulders, and the person sitting 
in the canvas with his feet stretched out in front of 
him, swings in a sort of hammock. The coolies were 
scantily clad in loin cloths and wore their long hair 
coiled in the back of the neck. They chanted, as they 
climbed, an excruciating melody, impossible to imitate, 
punctuated by groans and sighs. They were not suf- 
fering, but the rhythmic groans helped them to climb. 
The road zigzagged sharply up past jungles of fern 
and palm, and coffee bushes with scarlet and green 
berries among their glossy, dark leaves. After about 
three hours, the bearers dropped the poles on the 
ground in front of a whitewashed plaster bungalow, 
with a rose-covered veranda, standing in a garden sur- 
rounded by a hedge of hibiscus. In the doorway stood 
the host and hostess with a warm welcome. It was 
already eleven o'clock and quite time for breakfast, 
which consisted of large soup plates of oatmeal and 
canned milk, coffee, curry, and fruit. After breakfast 
the family went out to the back garden to see the 



44 AROUND THE WORLD 

coffee pickers, who had brought their baskets of berries 
for inspection. Men, women and children stood 
salaaming and smiling over enormous baskets filled 
with scarlet berries about the size of cranberries. 
They made Janet suddenly think of Christmas. "Why, 
it is Christmas Eve!" she cried. "It seems more like 
Fourth of July," said Jack, "only hotter." 

That afternoon the twins were invited to a Christ- 
mas tree to be given at a neighboring estate for the 
London Mission School children. They went in a 
rickshaw drawn by two men in khaki livery, with scar- 
let sashes and turbans, who kept step perfectly. First 
there were sports on the lawn. The boys played a 
game in which they acted the parts of postmaster, tele- 
graph operator, and other government officials. The 
British Government requires this training. The girls 
sang funny motion songs, describing how girls should 
care for their rooms, their hair, and their teeth. 
Finally, a big tent was thrown open. Inside was a 
Christmas tree, all lighted, with a present for each 
child. 

Christmas Day was beautiful, even though there 
was no snow. The English Church was decorated 
with greens, and there were scarlet poinsettias in the 
gardens. All the English people came from the other 
coffee estates to the morning service in the church. In 
the evening the dinner of turkey and plum pudding 
made the twins almost forget that they were not at 
home in America, instead of in a country where Christ- 
mas is celebrated by very, very few. 

The holidays came to an end and the coolies jolted 
down the ghat to an even worse song than before, but 
Jack and Janet enjoyed every jolt. The masses of 



WITH JACK AND JANET 45 

purple and yellow lantana, clambering wild over the 
mountainside, and the views of the great, hot plains 
below, all opalescent in the late afternoon sunlight, 
made them exclaim with delight. 

The next morning the servant wakened them at two- 
thirty at a station called Kadpadi (pronounced card 
party). As they stepped down from the train, a man 
appeared out of the darkness with a note from Dr. Ida 
Scudder, whom they were to visit in Vellore. It said 
that the bearer was her syce or coachman, who would 
drive them to Vellore, saving a tiresome wait for a 
train. It was a four-mile drive under the brilliant stars, 
the Southern Cross just above the horizon before them, 
and dark mountains enclosing the broad valley they 
were crossing. 

The twins were eager to see Dr. Scudder, for they 
had learned that besides being wonderful herself, she 
belongs to a very famous family. Her grandfather 
founded the Arcot Mission of the Dutch Reformed 
Church nearly one hundred years ago. The family has 
given almost one thousand years of service to India. 
Six generations have been doctors. Three generations 
have been medical missionaries in India. 

Dr. Scudder stood at the door of her bungalow, with 
a light in her hand to welcome the travellers. She sent 
them off to bed for a few more hours of sleep, saying 
that they must be prepared for a busy day. It proved 
to be busy and delightful. Jack and Janet fell in love 
with Dr. Scudder and her pets. In her own house she 
is followed about by a lively, white kitten and a beau- 
tiful collie, named Frisky, while at the hospital brown 
babies cling to her skirts and find their way into her 
arms and heart. Babies are sold and given away in 



46 AROUND THE WORLD 

India, as if they were no more precious than dolls, 
because their parents are so poor. Janet wished that 
she might take one of the little brownies home with 
her, for they are almost sweeter than American babies. 
As this was out of the question, Dr. Scudder suggested 
that she name one and call it her own, and Mr. Howard 
said he would send money to support it. 

The hospital is a fascinating place. It has such a 
homelike, cheerful atmosphere. Native nurses, in 
snowy white sarees, go quietly about, and relatives 
and friends of the patients add life and color. Janet 
noticed a doll on every pillow. These were Christmas 
dolls, and grown women were as pleased as children 
over the eyes that opened and shut. Everyone loves 
her first doll. 

That afternoon Dr. Scudder gave a gosha party, to 
which no men were invited. Gosha women are high- 
caste ladies, who must not be seen by men outside of 
their own family. They never stir from the house 
except in a closed carriage. The doctor had invited 
two hundred of these women to come to the hospital 
to see Mrs. Howard and Janet. A covered walk had 
to be arranged from the street to the door, so that no 
one could see them get out of the jutkas, and the men 
were sent away. Jack thought all this very silly. "If 
they weren't so afraid of being seen," he said, "no one 
would think of looking at them." 

Most of the women invited had never been at such 
an affair in their lives. Many of them found it hard to 
get permission from their husbands to come, but they 
managed it somehow and were all waiting when Mrs. 
Howard and Janet arrived at the hospital. It was a 
wonderful sight — the room full of dark women, dressed 



WITH JACK AND JANET 47 

in costly silk sarees with rich gold borders. They 
wore flashing jewels in hair, ears and noses, and many 
bracelets and anklets. It was fortunate that Janet had 
not worn white, for white is considered very common, 
no matter how expensive the material, and is used for 
mourning. 

After a little entertainment of music, there was the 
novel ceremony of shaking hands. In India people do 
not shake hands, but touch their own foreheads and 
say "Salaam." If Janet was fascinated with the cos- 
tumes of the Indian ladies, they found hers no less 
interesting, and did not hesitate to feel of it and exam- 
ine it carefully. As very few could speak English, the 
conversation was interpreted. After the American 
ceremony of handshaking, there was the Indian one of 
sprinkling the guests with rose-water and of passing 
sandalwood paste in a silver bowl. Into this each 
guest dipped her fingers and rubbed them on her face. 
As a souvenir everyone received a nosegay of jasmine 
and marigold and a chew of betel-nut, cleverly wrapped 
with a bit of lime in a green leaf. Janet would have 
tried the betel, but was warned that it would stain her 
teeth bright red. The Americans, as guests of honor, 
were garlanded with heavy wreaths of jasmine and 
marigolds, and were given limes wrapped in gold and 
silver paper. 

After all the ladies had driven away in their rattling, 
springless bullock carts, Janet and her mother went 
back to Dr. Scudder's veranda. They found that Mr. 
Howard and Jack had been to see a Temple of Kali, 
which has been unused for a long time. There is 
another Temple of Kali in Vellore, where, within Dr. 
Scudder's memory, human sacrifice has actually been 



48 AROUND THE WORLD 

performed. Kali is a goddess, who must have human 
beings to devour. Jack said that all over the pillars of 
the temple there are sweet carvings of Kali devouring 
her victims, and of similar pleasant subjects. 

The next day Jack went for a walk in the country 
and a swim in the swimming- tank with Dr. Scudder's 
nephews, who were at home from school in the hills. 
In India, English and American boys and girls go to 
school in summer, when it is too hot to stay on the 
plains, and have their vacation in winter. Janet was 
invited to go with a young lady missionary and her 
native helper or Bible woman to call on three Moham- 
medan begums or princesses. They could not come to 
the party, as their father was out of town and there 
was no way of getting his permission. They were 
beautiful girls of twelve, fourteen and sixteen. Sixteen 
is rather old to be unmarried in India, but this father 
found it difficult to provide his daughter with a hus- 
band of high enough rank. The girls recited for Janet 
in Arabic from the Koran and in English from the 
Bible. When they recited "I will lift up mine eyes 
unto the hills," Janet exclaimed, "That is my favorite 
psalm!" and added, "you must be fond of it, too, for 
the mountains around Vellore are so beautiful." "We 
have never seen them," said the youngest girl sadly, 
"for we do not go out." "How do you live shut up in 
the house all the time? What do you do all day 
long?" asked Janet. One of the girls sent a maid- 
servant to bring their sewing. It was the crudest kind 
of fancy work. They were sewing dresses and tinsel 
jewels on colored pictures of Hindu goddesses to frame 
and hang on the walls. They were also trimming their 
sarees with beads sewed on narrow black velvet. 



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WITH JACK AND JANET 49 

When Janet reached the house again, Jack had just 
come in from his walk, bringing two nests made by a 
tailor bird. One, like an oriole's nest, was for the 
lady-love and the other was a swinging perch for the 
male to sit on before her door and sing to her. The 
boys told Jack thrilling stories of the walks they take 
in the hills and of the snakes they kill up there. A 
man in the hills once collected all kinds of poisonous 
snakes to experiment on to find an antidote for cobra- 
bite, and when he died no one knew what to do with 
them. Someone set them loose, so that there is an 
unusually large variety about, even pythons. "I'm 
glad we don't have to go to school up there," shuddered 
Janet. "There are mad jackals, too," added Jack, "that 
bite pet dogs and spread hydrophobia." 

The twins hated to leave Vellore, but Mrs. Ferguson 
was waiting in Madras to see their mother, who was 
an old friend. In Madras, as in Madura and Vellore, 
the streets were crowded with picturesque people. 
Jack and Janet never tired of watching the street life. 
One day Mrs. Ferguson said that she wanted to show 
the twins one of her little caste schools. "Caste seems 
to be very important in India," said Janet. "Why are 
people high caste and low caste? Is it like rich and 
poor in America?" "No," answered Mrs. Ferguson. 
"The caste system is part of the Hindu religion. It is 
said to have originated in this way : The three great- 
est Hindu gods are Brahma, the creator, Siva, the de- 
stroyer, and Vishnu, the preserver. The story goes 
that the different castes sprang from the different parts 
of Brahma. The highest is the Brahmin caste, which 
sprang from his head. The Brahmins do not work 
with their hands. All the other castes follow certain 



50 AROUND THE WORLD 

trades. People have to follow the trade of the caste 
into which they were born and can never rise to an- 
other. There are some who belong to no caste at all. 
These are called pariahs or outcasts. The lowest is 
the Madiga caste of scavengers. 

"I want you to see a scavenger school, but first let 
us go to the caste school. The scavenger children have 
to work in the morning. As they must clean up the 
open sewers that flow through the streets and carry 
away refuse from houses, their school does not open 
until eleven o'clock." The caste school was on the 
roof of a native house. The children looked comfort- 
able and happy, sitting on the floor under an awning 
doing arithmetic on their slates. The scavenger school 
was in the courtyard of a native house. The children 
came straggling in as their work was finished. The 
teacher, a kind-faced Indian woman, had a boy and girl 
act out the fable of "The Fox and the Crow." The 
girl, standing on a bench, was the crow in a tree. The 
bit of cheese was a pencil, which she held between her 
teeth and which, at the end, she dropped on the floor. 
The boy, who was the fox, spoke so dramatically that 
Jack and Janet could almost understand the Telugu. 

Dr. Ferguson has weekly parties for the Telugu 
students from the college and nearly every day some of 
them came to play tennis. They spoke perfect Eng- 
lish and Jack enjoyed playing with them. One day, 
while Jack was absorbed in a game, Mrs. Ferguson 
took Janet to see two high-caste girls, whom she was 
teaching English. The first was a little girl of ten, 
the daughter of an educated Brahmin gentleman, who 
has his M. A. degree from Oxford University. She 
was a frail little thing, but very bright and eager to 



WITH JACK AND JANET 51 

learn. "You must teach her all you can before she is 
twelve," her father had said, "because then she must be 
married." "But you won't marry her so soon," pro- 
tested Mrs. Ferguson, who thought that an educated 
man, even though a Hindu, might have more advanced 
ideas than the ordinary Hindus. "It is the custom of 
the family," was his answer. "She will be married 
before she is twelve, if a good chance offers," said Mrs. 
Ferguson, "and perhaps to a man seventy years old, 
with a dozen other wives." The little girl's mother 
condescended to come into the room while the guests 
were there, although it was very contaminating for her 
to do so, as they were not of her caste. As soon as 
they were gone, she would have to take a bath and go 
through a ceremony of purification. She was even so 
gracious as to give Janet an alabaster image of 
Ganesha, the elephant god. She took this from a large 
glass case filled with images, among them an American 
doll. When the callers left, a servant followed them 
to the carriage with another present, a tray of beautiful 
fruit. 

The next house was that of an older girl, who, 
dressed in her best saree and quantities of jewels, was 
celebrating the day as a festival because she was of age 
to be married. Her little sister, by way of contrast, 
was running about in her brown skin and a string of 
beads. "Her clothing has been taken off and put 
away, because we would contaminate it so that it would 
have to be washed. It will be easy to give the child a 
bath," explained Mrs. Ferguson. 

From Madras the family took a trip to Nellore, where 
there is a wonderful Baptist Mission. There, in a 
beautiful compound, the missionaries are doing all 



52 AROUND THE WORLD 

sorts of things. Some take care of sick people in an 
immaculate, model hospital, others teach in the girls' 
elementary and high schools, others have a Bible 
school where Christian girls are trained to be mission- 
aries to their own people. One of the most interesting 
things of all to Jack and Janet was the little school in 
the palem or village just outside the compound wall. 
The Indian schoolmaster has to collect his pupils and 
bring them to school every morning, as there is no 
clock in the village and no money to buy a school-bell. 
The schoolhouse is of mud, with a thatched roof, and 
the children sit on the ground. They learn to sing, 
and listen earnestly to the teacher. 

The compound school is more up-to-date. There 
the children learn to speak English in the kindergarten 
and study much as American children do. Another 
interesting work is Mrs. Downie's Home for Blind 
Women. In the compound, not far away, there is a 
boys' high school, where science and other higher 
branches are studied. 

When the twins went back to Madras, Mrs. Fergu- 
son had a surprise for them, an invitation to dine with 
an Indian Christian family. They sat on the floor, 
with large plantain leaves before them for plates, and 
a brass jar with water. The hostess piled some rice on 
each leaf and put some curry on it. Around it she 
spread various condiments. (To be pucca or genuine 
Indians Jack and Janet should have eaten with their 
fingers, but not having learned to do that daintily they 
brought their own spoons and forks.) Everything was 
delicious but so peppery that the twins ate with the 
tears streaming down their cheeks and they took fre- 
quent mouthfuls of plantain and drinks of water to 



WITH JACK AND JANET 53 

cool their throats. After the feast there was a lovely 
moonlight drive along the beach. 

The next day was Sunday and three young men were 
to be baptized at the church, the first converts from a 
palem, where missionaries have been working for over 
twenty-five years. It means persecution for anyone to 
become a Christian in that village, where the people 
are unusually superstitious and bigoted. If it were 
known that the baptism was to take place, every means 
would be taken to keep the men from getting out of 
the village. Two arrived in time, but the other was 
late. Everyone was breathless with fear that he had 
been detained by his relatives, but finally he arrived 
triumphant. After the baptism the men had to stay in 
some temporary quarters arranged for them on the 
compound, as it would have been too dangerous for 
them to return to the palem until the anger of the 
people had cooled. When their relatives came the 
next day to scold and bewail, because the men had 
broken their caste, they received as an answer, "We 
belong to a much higher caste than you now. Ours is 
the Rajah Caste, for we are children of the King." 

The next evening the family left Madras and started 
on their way north. 




==- ^^j^^r"-*^ ■ ~ 



54 AROUND THE WORLD 



QUESTIONS ON CHAPTER II. 

1. Describe the voyage from Egypt to Ceylon. 
What Bible story do you know about the Red Sea? 

2. Tell what you can about the climate and products 
of Ceylon. 

3. What is Buddhism? Describe a Buddhist priest. 

4. What missionary work is being done in Ceylon? 

5. What Mission is at Madura? Describe the visit 
there. 

6. Impersonate Jack and describe your visit to the 
hills. 

7. Impersonate Janet and describe your visit to 
Vellore. 

8. What is the Hindu belief about caste? 

9. Tell five interesting events in the twins' visit to 
Madras. 

10. What kinds of work are the missionaries doing 
at Nellore? 




Copyright Wiele and Klein, Madras. 

Indian Child in Everyday Dress. 



THE VISION OF SIR LAUNFAL 

"For Christ's sweet sake, I beg an alms;"— 
The happy camels may reach the spring, 
But Sir Launfal sees only the grewsome thing, 
The leper, lank as the rain-blanched bone, 
That cowers beside him, a thing as lone 
And white as the ice-isles of Northern seas 
In the desolate horror of his disease. 

And Sir Launfal said, — "I behold in thee 

An image of Him who died on the tree ; 

Thou also hast had thy crown of thorns, — 

Thou also hast had the world's buffets and scorns,— 

And to thy life were not denied 

The wounds in the hands and feet and side; 

Mild Mary's Son, acknowledge me; 

Behold, through him, I give to thee!" 

Then the soul of the leper stood up in his eyes 

And looked at Sir Launfal, and straightway he 
Remembered in what a haughtier guise 

He had flung an alms to leprosie, 
When he girt his young life up in gilded mail 
And set forth in search of the Holy Grail. 
The heart within him was ashes and dust; 
He parted in twain his single crust, 
He broke the ice on the streamlet's brink, 
And gave the leper to eat and drink, 
Twas a mouldy crust of coarse brown bread, 

Twas water out of a wooden bowl,— 
Yet with fine wheaten bread was the leper fed, 

And 'twas red wine he drank with his thirsty soul. 

As Sir Launfal mused with a downcast face, 
A light shone round about the place; 
The leper no longer crouched at his side, 



But stood before him glorified, 

Shining and tall and fair and straight 

As the pillar that stood by the Beautiful Gate, — 

Himself the Gate whereby men can 

Enter the temple of God in Man. 

His words were shed softer than leaves from the pine, 

And they fell on Sir Launfal as snows on the brine, 

Which mingle their softness and quiet in one 

With the shaggy unrest they float down upon; 

And the voice that was calmer than silence said, 

"Lo, it is I, be not afraid! 

In many climes, without avail, 

Thou hast spent thy life for the Holy Grail; 

Behold it is here, — this cup which thou 

Didst fill at the streamlet for me but now; 

This crust is my body broken for thee, 

This water His blood that died on the tree; 

The Holy Supper is kept, indeed, 

In whatso we share with another's need; 

Not what we give, but what we share,— 

For the gift without the giver is bare; 

Who gives himself with his alms feeds three, — 

Himself, his hungering neighbor, and me." 

JAMES RUSSELL LOWELL. 



CHAPTER III. 

LETTERS FROM INDIA. 

DURING the rest of the trip through India, the 
twins were seeing so much that they could 
scarcely find time to write a line a day in their 
diaries. Not until they were on the boat 
bound for Burma, did they have a chance to draw a 
long breath and think over what they had seen. Just 
before the steamer left Calcutta, Mr. Howard found a 
big package of American mail waiting for him at 
Cook's office. In it were letters for the twins from 
Miss West and Mr. Cole. As Jack and Janet felt quite 
in the mood to describe their adventures to someone, 
they decided to answer the letters at once. Jack said 
that he would write to Mr. Cole, telling everything that 
had happened between Madras and Bombay. Janet 
said that she would write to Miss West, describing the 
journey from Bombay to Calcutta. Then the two 
could exchange letters and have the whole story. As 
there were no other boys and girls on board, the three 
days' voyage might have seemed dull to the twins, if 
they had not been so busy writing these letters. 



JACK'S LETTER. 

S. S. Angora (bound for Rangoon), 

Feb. 1, 1914. 
Dear Mr. Cole ;— 

Janet and I were glad to get your letter at Calcutta. 
We are having a fine trip. I can't tell you about 
everything, so I am just going to describe what hap- 



58 AROUND THE WORLD 

pened to us between Madras and Bombay. We left 
Madras at night for Guntur. People like to travel at 
night in India, because it is not so hot. We had to 
change cars at Bezwada between two and three in the 
morning. That is another custom of India. I wish I 
had counted the sunrises we've seen. Fve seen enough 
to last all the rest of my life. As we stepped off the 
train, there were some lady missionaries from Guntur 
on the platform. They had been waiting for us all 
night, sleeping on a table and some benches in the 
dirty station. They had a tea-basket and made coffee 
for us on the train. 

We spent the next day visiting the Lutheran Mission 
at Guntur. We saw a college for men, some schools 
for girls and a large hospital for women. When Dr. 
Kugler showed us her beautiful building and the new 
wing that was being added, I said I was glad to see 
one woman's hospital that was big enough. Dr. Scud- 
der's is so crowded sometimes that she has to have 
two layers of patients, one on the beds and another on 
the floor, like upper and lower berths on a steamer. 
Dr. Kugler said I would think hers crowded if I went 
into the dispensary, for two hundred people come there 
a day for medicine. The Indian lady doctor, who as- 
sists Dr. Kugler, takes charge of them. There is a 
memorial chapel, where the people who have to wait 
can listen to hymns and helpful talks. 

The sick people come from long distances, often 
hundreds of miles. The relatives and friends, who 
come with them, don't expect to go home until the 
patients are well. As there isn't room for them in the 
hospital, the Rajah gave Dr. Kugler a hotel. He had 
it built with separate quarters for Hindus, Mohamme- 
dans, and Christians. When he comes, he always stays 
in the Christian part, although he is a Brahmin. 

The Rajah is a great friend of Dr. Kugler's, because 
once she saved his little boy's life. When the prince 
was brought to the hospital very ill, she took care of 
him herself, staying with him day and night until he 



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WITH JACK AND JANET 59 

got well. The Rajah really believes in the Bible, and 
has translated the Gospels into poetry to distribute 
among his friends. 

In the afternoon Dr. Kugler gave a party. All the 
high officials of the town came and brought their wives. 
The little queen was guest of honor. I didn't see her, 
as men are not allowed to look at high-caste women. 
The ladies were entertained in the house and their hus- 
bands on the lawn. When the time came for speeches, 
the women rebelled against staying in the house and 
missing all the fun. They went out and stood behind 
some trees, where they could see and hear without 
being seen. The officials made fine speeches, praising 
the schools, the hospital, and the missionaries of the 
Lutheran Mission. 

That night we left for Ongole. The mission there is 
Baptist. The school children were making collections 
of stamps and butterflies. They have school gardens, 
where they raise fruit and vegetables. Last year they 
raised more than enough for their own use and sold 
them, making several hundred rupees toward expenses. 
We had some of their papayas and found them very 
good. We liked the fruits in India. Besides plantains 
and oranges, we had custard-apples, papayas, pomelos 
and mangosteens. Mangoes were not in season. We 
had guavas and tamarinds, too, in jelly. 

Besides the schools at Ongole, we saw a fine college 
for men, a large church, and Buckingham Canal, which 
one of the early missionaries, Dr. Clough, influenced 
the Government to build in the great famine, to give 
people work. The famines are terrible in India. 
When the crops fail, food is so high that people starve 
by thousands, because they cannot afford even one 
meal a day, which is all they ever have. Wages in 
India are only five cents a day. We went up on 
Prayer-meeting Hill, where Dr. and Mrs. Jewett once 
prayed that all the country, as far as the eye could see, 
might some day be Christian. About twenty-five years 



60 AROUND THE WORLD 

later their prayer was answered, and today there are 
sixty-five thousand Christians in that district. 

We arrived at Kavali late on a bright moonlight 
night. Kavali is a little native town, with no Euro- 
peans or Americans except the Bullard family. Mr. 
and Mrs. Bullard are missionaries of the Baptist Board, 
who have been preaching in that section for years. 
When their daughter finished her education in America 
she came back to help her father and mother. 

In that district the British Government has always 
had trouble with the Erukalas, a wild gypsy tribe. 
The men wander about, stealing from fields and houses, 
and the women and children are professional beggars. 
The Government could do nothing with them, and as 
it was expensive to keep the men in jail all the time 
for stealing, it was thought best to send them to work 
in the tin mines, a long way off. One night Miss 
Bullard heard wailing outside. She went out and 
found the women at the compound gates. She com- 
forted them by promising to ask the Government not 
to send the men away. The very next day she went 
to the officials and asked if they could not change their 
plan and keep the people together. The officials sug- 
gested that Miss Bullard take the whole tribe and try 
to reform them. They said that Government would 
stand behind her with money and police protection. 
She accepted the offer and was given six hundred and 
fifty criminals, a quarry and four hundred acres of land 
to enlarge the compound. 

She first had the people build a village for them- 
selves on the new land. It has broad, clean streets and 
neat mud houses, which seem like palaces to the wild 
people. They have never lived in houses before. 
When in need of shelter, they used to put four sticks 
in the ground and throw a mat over them. The old 
people look wild enough with their long, matted hair 
and wicked eyes, but the children are more civilized. 
They go to school and learn to be honest. Their par- 
ents are quite proud of them. Everyone is busy, the 



WITH JACK AND JANET 61 

children in school and the older people at their trades. 
Father was amazed at the number of industries that 
Miss Bullard has started in the village. Some of the 
people make aluminum ware and pottery. Some make 
street brooms of fibre to send to London. Others 
weave the cotton cloths which are worn by the vil- 
lagers. The rest work in the stone quarry. The 
feeble old people, who have to stay at home, sit on the 
ground before their houses, making straw mats. In a 
year and a half the idle, lawless tribe has become a 
peaceful, busy colony. Miss Bullard very seldom has 
to call the police to help her. It is too much to expect 
that the older people are going to be entirely made! 
over. They are so accustomed to going out in the 
night to steal, that roll is called in the village three 
times between sunset and sunrise to keep them at 
home. The children are having a better chance than 
their parents ever had and are going to be all right. 
Father told Miss Bullard that he was proud of an 
American girl, who could succeed in a task that was 
too much for the British Government. He thought 
the officials showed great confidence in American mis- 
sions in being willing to let her attempt it. She said 
the experiment has been so satisfactory that several 
other missions have been asked to take tribes to 
reform. 

We spent the next day at Bangalore, where there 
is a language school for new missionaries. British, 
Canadian and American missionaries go there to study 
the languages they need for their work. I asked one 
of the students how many languages are spoken in 
India — I already knew of four, — Telugu, Tamil, Hindu- 
stani and Cannarese. He said one hundred and forty- 
seven in all India, but that he was pretty busy trying 
to get the hang of just one of them. 

We left Bangalore that night and arrived at Miraj 
the next. Dr. Wanless came to the station in his auto- 
mobile and took us to his house in the Presbyterian 
Compound, six miles away. There isn't an English or 



62 AROUND THE WORLD 

American person in Miraj except the missionaries. 
After chota the next morning, Mary Richardson came 
over from the next house with an invitation from her 
father and mother to breakfast at eleven. She was 
delighted to find that Janet was her own age, for she 
had not seen an American girl for nearly a year. Janet 
went off with her and I went to the hospital with 
Father and Mother. As the caste rules are not strictly 
kept in that part of India, Dr. Wanless can take both 
men and women into his hospital. He is famous all 
over India as a surgeon and as a specialist in eye dis- 
eases. There are so few doctors in India that the aver- 
age distance that Dr. Wanless's patients come is two 
hundred miles. I said I didn't see why he didn't get 
more doctors over from America. He said he was 
trying to, but that while Americans are waking up to 
the fact that they are needed, he is training Indian 
doctors. Then he opened the door into a class-room. 
Dr. Vail, a young American in a white suit, was explain- 
ing a skeleton to a group of Indian medical students. 
He excused the class, and offered to take us over to the 
Richardson bungalow, as it was nearly breakfast time. 
He asked us to go with him to the leper asylum that 
afternoon. Mother was afraid it would be dangerous, 
but Dr. Vail said that leprosy is not contagious, but 
infectious. There would be no danger, if we did 
not touch the people. Father and Mother decided to 
go and Dr. Vail said he would call for us at four 
o'clock. 

We had a fine breakfast with the Richardsons and 
Mr. Richardson told us stories about his preaching 
tours. Mary and Janet dressed up in sarees and ban- 
gles to look just like Indian girls. Some of the Indian 
girls are very pretty. 

At three o'clock Miss Patterson, who has charge of 
training the nurses, came over to take us to tiffin at 
her house. She has a little Indian prince living with 
her. His father is afraid that he will be poisoned at 



WITH JACK AND JANET 63 

home by one of the wives, who is jealous because he is 
heir instead of her son. He is only six years old, but 
he brought a retinue of servants and his own carriage 
and pony. Miss Patterson says that the child alone 
would be no trouble, but that his servants are a great 
care. 

After tiffin Dr. Vail came in his new automobile, 
which is a present from the Maharajah, so that the 
doctor can get to him quickly if he should be sick. 
Father said, "The native rulers, as well as the British 
Government, seem to appreciate the missionaries." 
Dr. Vail said, "Everyone appreciates Dr. Wanless. The 
Parsees wanted to build a big hospital in Bombay and 
have him take charge of it. As there are other doctors 
there and none in Miraj, he refused to go. Since he 
would not come to them, the Parsees are coming to 
him, for now they have decided to build the hospital in 
Miraj opposite the Presbyterian Compound." 

As we drove out to the leper settlement, there were 
huts made of straw along the roadside, where people 
seemed to be camping. Dr. Vail said that the people 
had fled from plague-infested villages and were camp- 
ing until it was safe to go home. This kind of plague 
seems to attack only the natives. Europeans almost 
never have it. Janet and I did not want to see the 
lepers very much, because we had already seen some 
begging in the streets in Madras and they were dread- 
ful looking creatures. The Government ought to shut 
them up somewhere, but the people can't understand 
why they should be shut away from their friends. 
They say that they have done nothing wrong, but are 
just unfortunate. The missionaries have started asy- 
lums for them and try to relieve their sufferings. The 
lepers were so pleased to see us that we were glad we 
had come. They showed us their clean little houses 
and their nice church and made us admire their chil- 
dren. We did not stay very long, as we had to get 
back to dinner at Dr. Wanless's house. 

The next morning we started for Ahmednugger or 



64 AROUND THE WORLD 

Nugger, as it is called for short. We had been travel- 
ing so much at night that it was rather interesting to 
have a day trip. It was pretty hot and we had to be 
careful, even in the train, not to sit where the sun 
would shine on us. There are sun shields like metal 
awnings over the train windows. The country was 
dry and dusty. There were few trees or houses. The 
only things to brighten the dreariness of our ride were 
the bright clothing of the natives at the stations and 
the brilliant birds that flashed through the brown 
fields. 

We arrived at Ahmednugger in the late afternoon. 
Mrs. Clark, a friend of mother's, met us. Her husband 
is a missionary of the American Board. They have 
three nice children. Mr. Clark has a little automobile 
just big enough for one person. He goes out in it 
every day to preach to the people in the country. 

Dr. Hume, another missionary, offered to act as our 
guide at Ahmednugger. As we were there on Sunday, 
the industrial school was closed, but we went through 
the buildings and met Mr. Churchill, who has charge 
of that work. He is great. His son, who is about 
my age, is coming to America next year to school and 
is going to visit me. His father is an inventor. He 
has a standing offer from an automobile company of 
ten thousand dollars a year, but he won't give up his 
mission work, even though the salary is so small. He 
has invented a loom, which is "fool-proof." It is so 
simple that anyone can take it apart and put it together 
again. It has doubled the output of cotton cloth. All 
the parts are standardized and sold at low cost. The 
students make the looms and weave on them. They 
also make beautiful rugs from Persian patterns, besides 
furniture and metal articles. 

Dr. Hume took us into the new church. The only 
decoration is the conventionalized lotus flower. The 
Mohammedans are so shocked at pictures in a church 
that it is better not to have anything but flower 
designs. The Moslem's religion teaches that it is 



WITH JACK AND JANET 65 

idolatry to make pictures or images of men or animals. 
We met the leading poet of West India, Mr. Tilak. 
He was teaching a class of young men in a tower room 
of the church. He writes hymns and has written a 
song, which he hopes will be the national song of India. 
Isn't it funny that there is no national song except 
"God Save the King"? 

In the afternoon we went to Sunday school at the 
girls' boarding school. Mr. Tilak led the singing of 
his own hymns and of the national song, which is 
called "Our Dear India." It is the first Indian singing 
I have heard that I'd care to listen to. The Indian 
idea of good singing is usually to make a lot of noise. 
After Sunday school mother and Janet went with 
Dr. Hume's daughter, Dr. Ruth Hume, and her 
partner, Dr. Proctor, to see their hospital for women. 
Father and I went back to the house to look after the 
luggage, as we were going to take a train to Bombay 
after tea. When Janet came back, she said she had 
seen a baby, who was at the hospital to be cured of the 
opium habit. I said, "What next?" Mother said it 
was true, and that it is not uncommon for babies to be 
brought to the doctor with the habit. Their mothers 
have to work in the fields and take the babies with 
them. The babies are given a dose of opium to keep 
them quiet, while the mothers are at work. After a 
while the poor little things are in such a condition that 
they are brought to the hospital. 

We went to the station after tea and arrived at 
Bombay early the next morning. This is the longest 
letter I ever hope to write. It has taken me nearly 
three days. I can mail it this afternoon at Rangoon. 

With best regards to you and the school, I am 

Yours sincerely, 

JACK HOWARD. 

P. S. Father helped me recall some of the things I 
have told you and I copied some from my notebook. 



66 AROUND THE WORLD 

I am going now to see the animals. There are cages 
of monkeys, bears and leopards on the forward deck, I 
like to watch the natives down there, too. They make 
themselves comfortable by sitting on their heels. One 
has a beard dyed bright orange. 



JANET'S LETTER. 

S. S. Angora, 
February 1, 1914. 
Dear Miss West: — 

We enjoyed your letter ever so much and are glad 
you have not forgotten us. Jack and I think of you 
whenever we write in the diaries you gave us. That 
is all the writing we have done lately. 

As Jack is telling Mr. Cole about our journey from 
Madras to Bombay, I am going to tell you about the 
last part of the trip through India. 

We have become very much interested in missions. 
There are no art galleries in India, and most of the 
temples are not beautiful or they are so bad that 
visitors are not admitted. The country is hot and 
barren but fascinating on account of the people in 
their bright-colored clothes. In our visits to the mis- 
sionaries we learned about the life of these people. 

At Bombay we stayed with Miss Millard of the Con- 
gregational Women's Board. She took us to her in- 
dustrial schools for the blind. Some of the teachers 
are blind. We saw a little, lame, blind girl, teaching a 
class of smaller girls to read raised letters. In the 
industrial classes these children string beads for neck- 
laces and curtains. The older boys make beautiful 
baskets and wicker furniture. Miss Millard also took 
us to see a co-educational high school of the Ameri- 
can Board, where the principal, Mr. Hazen, has the 
boys and girls pay their tuition by doing industrial 
work. 

Bombay is a magnificent city. We saw people in the 
streets who do not look like the other Indians. They 



WITH JACK AND JANET 67 

have thin, intellectual faces and olive complexions. 
Their costume is different, too. The men wear long, 
loose coats, and black patent-leather domes on their 
heads with gold stars painted on them. The women 
wear short sarees drawn up over their heads and little 
lace overskirts. Father said these people are Parsees. 
Would you like to hear what I have learned about the 
Parsees? They are not natives of India. Their an- 
cestors came from Persia to India in the seventh cen- 
tury, when the Moslems conquered Persia. Their 
religion is even older than Buddhism. It was founded 
by Zoroaster, who lived so long ago that no one is sure 
just when he did live. The Parsees are called fire- 
worshippers, because, when they pray, they face the 
fire, the sun, or any other luminous object. They say 
that they believe in one God, the Creator and Holy 
One, and that fire is the most perfect symbol of this 
God. They keep sacred fire burning in a vase on a 
stand in a special room of the house. Even the house- 
hold fire is never allowed to go out. There are temples 
besides, where priests guard the eternal fire, which was 
brought from Persia centuries ago. There are only 
about one hundred thousand Parsees in the world. 
Nearly all live in or near Bombay. There are two 
hundred millions of Hindus. I wish it were the other 
way around. Parsee women are not shut up in zenanas 
or harems like Hindu and Moslem women, but are as 
free as the men. There are women lawyers and doc- 
tors, for the Parsees are educated and cultured. They 
are rich and fond of founding schools, hospitals and 
charities in Bombay. You probably know all about 
the Parsees already, but I have told you this to show 
you how much we are learning every day. 

I wonder if you know anything about the Jains? 
They are Hindus, who worship animal life. They 
wouldn't kill a mosquito, for fear the soul of one of 
their ancestors might be in it. There is a Jain hospital 
for animals in Bombay, where sick dogs, monkeys, and 
other animals are cared for. 



68 AROUND THE WORLD 

We went for a drive on Malabar Hill to see the 
Hanging Gardens and the Towers of Silence, which 
the Parsees build for their dead. Father says that the 
Parsee's religion teaches that cremation or burial is 
wrong, as the dead pollute the sacred fire or the earth, 
which is also sacred. That is why the bodies are ex- 
posed in towers, open to the sky, so that vultures may 
swoop down and dispose of the flesh. 

We also drove on the Apollo Bunder, a broad, white 
boulevard, which curves along beside the beautiful 
harbor. There is an island in the harbor, where tour- 
ists go to visit the Elephanta Caves. 

Our train left Bombay at night. We changed cars 
early in the morning at Baroda for Delhi. As you go 
north in India, it is very dusty and hot in the daytime, 
but in the early morning it is quite cool. The crowds 
at the railroad stations are more picturesque than ever 
then, for all the men wear bright orange, red, or pink 
India shawls wrapped around their heads and thrown 
over one shoulder. At Baroda we saw something new, 
a bedquilt parade, for there it seemed to be the fashion 
to wear coats and trousers made of flowered bedquilts, 
which looked warm but very funny. 

We were sorry there wasn't time at Baroda to see the 
Methodist mission, where the great camp meetings are 
held. 

Delhi is about an hour's ride from Baroda. It is the 
new capital of India. Father says that the British 
Government decided to move from Calcutta to Delhi in 
1911, partly because Delhi is more central than Cal- 
cutta and partly to please the Indian people. Delhi 
was their old capital under the Mogul Emperors. We 
stayed there only long enough to visit the Mosque of 
Shah Jehan, the Mutiny Monument, and the Peacock 
Throne. Then we took a train to Agra, the place in 
all India that Jack and I wanted most to see. We 
arrived at about five. As father thought we would 
have time to see the Taj Mahal before dark, we drove 
over from the station before going to the hotel. We 



WITH JACK AND JANET 69 

were so glad we saw it first at sunset. Mother told us 
the story of Shah Jehan and his favorite wife. The 
Taj Mahal, the most beautiful building in the world, 
is her tomb. 

The next day we went to the fort. It is built of red 
sandstone. Inside are the Pearl Mosque and the pal- 
ace, where Shah Jehan kept his wives. These build- 
ings are of white marble, finely carved and inlaid like 
the Taj Mahal with colored stones in flower designs. 
We sat in the loggia, where Shah Jehan loved to sit, 
after his favorite wife died, and look across the river to 
her tomb. We took a long drive to Seccundra to see 
the Tomb of Akbar, his grandfather. Isn't it strange 
that there are so few really beautiful Hindu buildings? 
The Moslem buildings are nearly always attractive. 

From Agra we went by night to Lucknow. There 
we saw Isabella Thoburn College, the only Christian 
college for women in India. It was founded by the 
Women's Society of the Methodist Episcopal Church, 
and is named for the first president. One of her 
pupils, a beautiful girl, called Lilavati Singh, became 
the next president. Now Miss Robinson is at the 
head. It is like an American college. The girls have 
rooms of their own, instead of sleeping in one large 
dormitory, as they do in most schools in India. They 
have Class Day, but instead of planting one tree, every 
girl in the class plants one. There is a preparatory 
school for the college. One of the college professors 
lives in the dormitory with the girls. She has started 
camp-fire clubs for them. All of the girls speak 
English and most of them are Christians. One thing 
I noticed in India is the difference in the appearance of 
Christians and other people. Of course, in America 
everyone looks more or less alike, but in India you can 
tell a Christian in a minute by their modest dress and 
the happy look in their faces. Mother says the reason 
Christians don't look different in America is that every- 
one is under Christian influence there. The Ten Com- 
mandments are in our blood. 



70 AROUND THE WORLD 

From Lucknow we went to Cawnpore. There we 
saw the beautiful white marble angel, which marks the 
well where the Indians threw the bodies of the English 
in the Mutiny of 1857. An English soldier stands 
guard over the enclosure. No Indian has ever been 
allowed inside. At Cawnpore we saw more Methodist 
schools and we heard about the experiences of the 
missionaries at the time of the Mutiny. Many were 
killed, but some escaped. Dr. and Mrs. William 
Butler, who started the wonderful Methodist Epis- 
copal Mission at Bareilly, hid with others in the 
mountains until the Mutiny was over. The Moslems 
wanted to kill every European in India and relied on 
the Hindus to help them in their Holy War against the 
Christians. When the Moslems began to break the 
Hindu idols and to destroy their temples, the Hindus 
decided that Christian rule was better after all and 
they welcomed the British back into power. 

The Woman's Union Missionary Society has an 
open-air school at Cawnpore, because tuberculosis is 
so common. The children sleep on the verandas and 
have ail their classes under the trees, except in the 
rainy season. They looked so pretty and happy. 
Don't you wish we could have school out of doors in 
the spring? 

We were invited to Allahabad to see the Presby- 
terian Mission. There we met a wonderful agricul- 
tural missionary, Mr. Sam Higginbottom. Farming 
is very hard work in India, because for nine months 
of the year there isn't a drop of rain. The only way to 
make things grow is to store water in tanks during the 
rainy season for irrigation. Some of the tanks are 
nine miles long. The Brahmins, who own a great 
deal of land and who would like to learn how to get 
larger crops, come to Mr. Higginbottom. He agrees 
to teach them on one condition, that they learn to farm 
by working with their own hands. This is breaking 
the custom of their caste, but they are so anxious to 



WITH JACK AND JANET 71 

learn that they are willing to do even that. Cows in 
India give from a pint to two or three quarts of milk a 
day. Mr. Higginbottom is breeding big stock, which 
give from ten to fourteen quarts. He also shows his 
students how to save every scrap of straw and grass in 
silos built underground. Then there is food for the 
cattle in the dry season and in famine times. 

Mr. Higginbottom said he wanted us to see his 
lepers, because if he had any success in his work, it 
was partly because of their prayers. They sang for 
us in their church, and their orchestra played on 
queer stringed instruments. Over the church door was 
the Bible verse, "Heal the sick, cleanse the lepers." 
The sick can be healed, but all that can be done for the 
lepers is to give them clean, bright surroundings. 
Father gave the lepers some money to buy candy, and 
they were so delighted that they followed us to the 
street, singing and dancing and playing their queer 
instruments. The pilgrims going by shouted, "Victory 
to the Ganges." The lepers answered bv singing 
louder and more earnestly their hymn, "Victory to 
Jesus." 

I forgot to say that as our train came near Alla- 
habad, we noticed crowds of people hurrying along 
the roads. Each one carried a little brass jar. We 
found out afterwards that they were pilgrims on their 
wav to the Mela, a great Hindu festival. The Hindus 
think that if they bathe at a certain season of the year 
at the meeting place of the Jumna, the Ganges, and a 
river, which they say flows underground, their sins will 
be washed away. The Ganges is sacred anyway, but 
at this spot it is most holy. 

Mr. Edwards, who is a professor in Ewing Christian 
College, took us to see the bathing. Thousands of pil- 
grims were hurrying to the water, where thousands 
were already bathing and filling their brass jars with 
the holy water. Beside the road sat fakirs or holy 
men with nothing on but ashes and yellow paint. One 



72 AROUND THE WO^LD 

fakir was sitting on a bed of spikes. Another was 
suspended over a fire. Others pretended to be ab- 
sorbed in sacred books. They all looked very silly, 
and people were giving them money for being so holy. 
There were bazaars and men followed us with beads 
and peanuts for sale. Priests walked about, holding 
umbrellas over the sacred cows to keep the sun off. 
It was more like a circus than anything, only it made 
you feel sad. After bathing and washing their clothes, 
the people spread the clean clothes to dry in the blaz- 
ing sun and some of the pilgrims performed pooja 
before the brass jars of Ganges water. That means 
they fell on their faces and worshipped them. 

We met a pleasant old gentleman at the festival, with 
a big bundle of tracts under his arm. He had a white 
beard and such a kind face. It was Dr. Lucas, a Pres- 
byterian missionary, who does evangelistic work. He 
said he came every day to the Mela to get acquainted 
with people and help them if he could. I think it 
would be easy for him to make friends. 

Mrs. Ewing, the widow of Dr. Ewing, for whom the 
college is named, invited us to dinner. She also invited 
five or six young men, just out of college in America, 
who are teaching for three or five years in Ewing Col- 
lege. They are called short-term missionaries. They 
live in the dormitory with the Indian students. The 
President of the college, since Dr. Ewing died, is Dr. 
Janvier. Mrs. Ewing stayed in Allahabad after Dr. 
Ewing's death to do the lovely things that the regular 
missionaries would like to do if they had time. Mother 
thinks there ought to be an extra person like her in 
every mission. We saw her teaching a little class of 
children on her veranda the next morning. 

From Allahabad we went to Benares, the most 
sacred city of the Hindus. There we took a guide and 
carriage and visited the Cow Temple and the Golden 
Temple. Then we went on the Ganges in a boat to 
see the ghats, as the steps and platforms that lead 




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WITH JACK AND JANET 73 

down the steep banks to the water are called. The 
burning ghats are the platforms where the Hindus burn 
their dead. We saw a dead body ready for burning, 
lying with its feet in the sacred river, and a funeral 
pyre beside it burning two people. We could just see 
through the smoke and flames two bundles of white 
and of red, one above the other with sticks between. 
The greatest bliss that can come to a Hindu is to die 
in Benares, so that his ashes may be thrown into the 
Ganges. Close to the pyres people were bathing and 
brushing their teeth and drinking Ganges water. 
People who die of smallpox are thrown into the river 
without being burned. I shouldn't care to eat fish in 
Benares. We went from the burning ghats past the 
priests with their cows and their umbrellas to the brass 
bazaar. As we were walking past the booths to see 
where we could find the best and cheapest things, we 
heard wild shrieks, and a man came running up the 
dirty, narrow street with blood streaming from the 
back of his neck. He passed near enough to touch us. 
We were so frightened that we went to the station and 
took the next train to Calcutta. 

I didn't like Calcutta. It is a fine city, with broad 
streets and good stores, but we saw horrid sights 
there. The name Calcutta comes from Kalighat, 
which is a horrible Hindu Temple of Kali. Since the 
English have put a stop to human sacrifice, goats are 
offered to the goddess every morning. We went to 
Kalighat just after a thousand goats had been killed. 
Their heads and entrails were lying about everywhere. 
Crowds of beggars and lepers were there carrying 
away parts that they could use. The priest said that 
the sacrifice helps the poor people and is a charitable 
institution. If I were the people I would rather be 
helped in some other way than by being allowed to pick 
up remnants of dead goats. The priest spoke perfect 
English and looked like an educated man, who should 
know better. When we tried to go, he would not 



74 AROUND THE WORLD 

let us until we had given him all the rupees we had for 
looking at his dreadful temple. 

Near Calcutta is Serampore, where William Carey 
lived. Of course, I knew that he was one of the first 
Protestant missionaries to India, but I did not know 
before quite how wonderful he was. He was a cob- 
bler, who lived in England. He went to India in 1793. 
He translated the Bible, or parts of it, into twenty- 
eight Indian languages. It makes me ashamed to think 
how much fuss I make over one page of French. The 
British East India Company employed him as their 
interpreter. With his indigo plantation and his print- 
ing press he earned one hundred and fifty thousand 
dollars, which he spent on buildings for the mission. 
We saw his college and it is as large and fine as many 
of the new mission buildings. Father bought a paper- 
weight made from the wood of a mahogany tree 
planted by William Carey. Think how old it is. Did 
you know that the hymn we sing sometimes in church, 
"O, thou my soul, forget no more," was written by the 
first convert of Carey's mission? 

From Calcutta we took a wonderful trip to Darjee- 
ling, to see the Himalaya Mountains. It took twenty 
hours to go and twenty hours to return to Calcutta. 
The time we spent on the train was almost as long as 
our stay in Darjeeling, for we had to hurry back to 
catch the boat for Burma. Fortunately, we had clear 
weather for seeing the highest mountains in the world. 
Mt. Everest is the highest, twenty-nine thousand, nine 
hundred and ninety-nine feet. The most beautiful peak 
is Kinchinjunga, which is pure white and which rises 
twenty-eight thousand, one hundred and fifty-six feet 
above sea level. It is like the Jungfrau in Switzerland, 
people say, but more than twice as high. The height 
of the Jungfrau is thirteen thousand, seven hundred 
and eighteen feet. I used to think Mt. Washington 
pretty high, but six thousand, two hundred and eighty- 



WITH JACK AND JANET 



75 



eight feet seem nothing now. It seemed good to see 
so much snow, for we have missed it this winter. 

As this letter is pretty long, perhaps I'd better close. 
We came on board this boat at Calcutta and expect to 
land at Rangoon today. 

With ever so much love to you and the class, I am 

Yours lovingly, 

JANET HOWARD. 




76 AROUND THE WORLD 



QUESTIONS ON CHAPTER III. 

1. What mission is at Guntur? Describe the visit 
there. 

2. What missions are at Ongole and Kavali? Tell 
the story of the Erukalas. 

3. What did Jack find out at Bangalore? 

4. Describe the mission at Miraj. 

5. What different kinds of mission work did the 
twins see at Ahmednugger? 

6. To what schools did Miss Millard take the 
Howard family at Bombay? What interesting facts 
do you know about the Parsees and the Jains? 

7. What famous college is at Lucknow? What 
schools are at Cawnpore? 

8. What new kind of mission work did the twins 
see at Allahabad? What else did they see there? 

9. Why are Agra, Delhi, Cawnpore, Benares and 
Serampore famous? 

10. From what does Calcutta take its name? 




Javanese Malay Girl. 



THE PALM TREE 

Is it the palm, the cocoa-palm, 

On the Indian Sea, by the isles of balm? 

Or is it a ship in the breezeless calm? 

A ship whose keel is of palm beneath, 
Whose ribs of palm ha /e a palm-bark sheath. 
And a rudder of palm it steereth with. 

Branches of palm are its spars and rails, 
Fibres of palm are its woven sails, 
And the rope is of palm that idly trails! 

What does the good ship bear so well? 
The c >coa-nut with its stony shell 
And the milky sap of its inner cell. 

What are its jars, so smooth and fine, 
But hollowed nuts, filled with oil and wine, 
And the cabbage that ripens under the Line? 

Who smokes his nargileh, cool and calm? 

The master, whose cunning and skill could charm 

Cargo and ship from the bounteous palm. 

In the cabin he sits on a palm-mat soft, 
From a beaker of palm his drink is quaffed, 
And a palm-thatch shields from the sun aloft! 

His dress is woven of palmy strands, 

And he holds a palm-leaf scroll in his hands, 

Traced with the Prophet's wise commands! 

The turban folded about his head 

Was daintily wrought of the palm-leaf braid, 

And the fan that cools him of palm was made. 



Of threads of palm was the carpet spun 
Whereon he kneels when the day is done, 
And the foreheads of Islam are bowed as one! 

To him the palm is a gift divine, 
Wherein all uses of man combine, — 
House and raiment, and food, and wine! 

And, in the hour of his great release, 
His need of the palm shall only cease 
With the shroud wherein he lieth in peace. 

"Allah il Allah!" he sings his psalm, 
On the Indian Sea, by the isles of balm; 
"Thanks to Allah who gives the palm!" 

i JOHN GREENLEAF WHITTIEBL 



CHAPTER IV. 

FROM PAGODA LAND TO THE LION CITY. 

I DID not realize that Burma would be such a con- 
trast to India," said Mr. Howard on the first day 
in Rangoon. "What a relief it is to see a fertile 
country and cheerful, prosperous people !" 

"One always feels the difference after India," said 
Major Stevenson, an English acquaintance of the hotel 
and steamer. "If you had come here first, you would 
not have been so impressed. You found India, no 
doubt, fascinating but depressing. Famine and pov- 
erty, combined with the horrible religion of Hinduism, 
make the atmosphere of that country positively tragic." 

"Buddhism is, after all, a great improvement on 
Hinduism," said Mr. Howard thoughtfully. "Its 
teachings are moral and it has no caste system." 

"O, yes," said his friend. "Gautama did his best to 
help India to have purer beliefs, but failed utterly. It 
seems strange that Buddhism has never been accepted 
by the founder's own people, when it has gained so 
many followers in other countries. I suppose you are 
going first to see the Buddhist worship at Shwe Dagon. 
Everyone does. Why not let me take you? I never 
tire of the crowd there." 

"Do take us," begged Jack and Janet, who were 
listening. "We are all ready to go now." As the 
older people were quite willing to start at once, a garry 
was called and the party was soon on its way to the 
famous pagoda. After a short drive, the garry stopped 
at the foot of a steep, stone stairway with an imposing 



80 AROUND THE WORLD 

entrance, guarded by two strange stone animals. Mr. 
and Mrs. Howard and the twins followed their guide, 
as he stepped out of the garry, and, passing between 
the gryphons, began to climb the long, wide flight of 
steps. 

Jack and Janet thought this the most interesting 
stairway they had ever seen. All the way up on either 
side, people sat on the steps with their wares spread out 
before them. These consisted of fruit, flowers, food, 
and other articles suitable for offering to the idols. 
Many of the venders were capable-looking women, 
smoking enormous, white cheroots. "Women have a 
more important place here than in India," said the 
Englishman. "They carry on a great deal of the busi- 
ness, as you see." The twins saw crowds of worship- 
pers going up the steps or coming down. Among 
these were groups of Buddhist priests and nuns, with 
shaved heads and yellow robes, pilgrims from other 
countries, and Burmans in tight silk or cotton skirts 
of various tints and short, loose jackets of thin, white 
cotton. The men wore colored silk scarves tied 
around their heads, with a corner standing out jauntily 
on one side. The women had similar scarves thrown 
carelessly about their shoulders. Their smooth, black 
hair was drawn straight up into a high, shining coil 
on top of the head, with a few delicate flowers to 
soften the severe effect. Many of the men and women 
carried painted paper parasols, and had brought 
sheaves of creamy roses or white lilies to offer to the 
idols. Children, dressed about like their parents, were 
also in the throng that was moving up and down. 
The steps are protected from the sun by a canvas awn- 
ing. At the top the tourists and worshippers came out 



WITH JACK AND JANET 81 

into a wide, open space, flooded with sunlight, and 
found themselves standing before the graceful, golden 
spire of Shwe Dagon. Around it are smaller pagodas 
and many shrines. A pagoda is not entered like a 
temple. It is a solid monument. The idols are out- 
side in the shrines. These have open fronts, so that 
the worship is all out of doors in the sunshine. Hun- 
dreds of images of Buddha stand in the shrines at 
Shwe Dagon, all with long ears, the sign of truthful- 
ness, and a vacant smile. The worshippers light can- 
dles before them and kneel with their offerings of 
flowers. All idolatry is sad, but compared to the dis- 
gusting scenes at Kalighat, the worship at Shwe Dagon 
is beautiful. 

After seeing the pagoda, Major Stevenson suggested 
a drive about the city. Rangoon is a fine, modern 
city with broad, paved streets and stone business 
blocks. The houses of Europeans and wealthy natives 
are quite different from the low plaster bungalows of 
India. They are built of teak and stand on stilts, eight 
or ten feet above the ground, in order to be high and 
dry in the rainy season. Teak is a wood so hard that 
white ants do not eat it. Many of the houses are set 
in lovely grounds, with flowering trees and bamboo 
shrubbery. 

The twins were amused to see the primitive way in 
which the streets of so modern a city are watered. 
Indian coolies run along, balancing bamboo poles on 
their shoulders, with watering pots, made of Standard 
Oil cans, swinging from the ends. The servants in 
Burma are imported from India, for the Burmans are 
either too well off or too proud and lazy to be servants. 
The policemen are Indian Sikhs, or men of the warrior 



82 AROUND THE WORLD 

caste. They are larger than the other Indians and look 
very fierce and striking with their bushy beards and 
striped turbans. The Telugus and Tamils in Rangoon 
form fully one-half the population. The Burmans look 
down upon them and almost never marry among the 
Indians. They often marry Chinese, who are nearly 
related, the Burmans having come originally from 
Thibet. 

It was fortunate that Major Stevenson was familiar 
with Rangoon and the language of the Indian garry 
drivers, who know no tongue but their own and who 
do not even take the trouble to learn the names of the 
main streets. They expect you to keep popping your 
head out of the window like a jack-in-the-box to shout 
directions. The poor Major was in danger of losing 
his pith hat and dislocating his neck in some of his 
hasty efforts to get his head out of the little window. 
Ke explained that "dinah" was not the driver's name, 
but that it means "to the right." Jack wrote it in his 
diary as a useful word to know in Burma. 

After driving through Dalhousie Park, in whose 
beautiful lake are reflections of the golden pagoda, 
rising out of the tree-tops, the twins were taken to see 
an elephant at work in a sawmill. He pushed and 
raised the heavy teak timbers with his trunk as easily 
as if they were chips. A half-naked Indian scrambled 
on and off his back directing the work in a jargon that 
the animal seemed to understand. The elephant 
kneeled and salaamed to the twins, when they went 
away. 

As Janet admired the pretty painted parasols, which 
the Burmans carry, the garry went next to a village, 
where people were making them. It stood in a grove 



WITH JACK AND JANET 83 

of bamboos and had only one street. The houses were 
of bamboo with thatched roofs and were raised on 
stilts, not only on account of the rains, but to provide 
a place for animals to live under them. In front of the 
houses freshly painted parasols were drying in the sun. 
They were all so lovely that it was hard to choose 
among them, but Janet finally decided that the very 
prettiest was a cream-colored one with pink and blue 
flowers, and her father bought it for her. 

Jack was more interested in post-cards than in para- 
sols and asked if there wasn't a place on the way back 
to the hotel where he could buy some views of the 
pagoda. The garry stopped in front of a fine-looking 
store, with a window full of cards and books. It was 
the shop of the American Baptist Mission Press. Mr. 
Phinney, the missionary printer and publisher, asked 
Jack to come and see the work-rooms behind the shop. 
He found them larger and even more interesting than 
those of the Nile Press. Mr. Phinney said that William 
Carey's son first brought the printing-press to Burma. 
He told Mr. Howard that most of the mission work in 
Burma is supported by the American Baptists. The 
Methodists are doing splendid work, too, but the Bap- 
tists were there over half a century before them. He 
was so glad to hear how interested the Howards had 
become in the missions of the countries they had been 
visiting and offered to show them what is being done 
in Rangoon. "Come with me tomorrow," he said, 
"and see Rangoon Baptist College and Kemendine 
Girls' School. They are the greatest sights in the 
city." Major Stevenson knew all about the college. 
The President, Dr. St. John, was a friend of his. "I 
meant to point out the buildings," he said. "We 



84 AROUND THE WORLD 

passed them, but the driver took all my attention just 
at that moment." Mr. Phinney's invitation was ac- 
cepted and the Howard family spent not only the next 
day but several others with the missionaries. 

Dr. and Mrs. Armstrong, who have charge of schools 
and churches for Telugus and Tamils in Rangoon, 
Moulmein, Bassein and Mandalay, first took the party 
to see their work. This visit was like a festival, for 
the students had beautiful wreaths of pink and white 
roses ready for the guests, besides great bouquets of 
roses. The twins were especially interested in the 
kindergarten and astonished at the English the chil- 
dren had been taught by the superintendent, Miss 
Armstrong. It was almost uncanny for such little 
mites, not only to answer Bible questions in perfect 
English but to know all about isosceles and equilateral 
triangles, hypotenuses, and so on. Miss Armstrong 
also has a private school for wealthy Burman boys and 
girls, whom she prepares for schools and universities 
in England. She hopes that with their unusual oppor- 
tunities they will come back to help their country. 

The visit to Miss Sutherland and Miss Eastman at 
Kemendine was another festive occasion, for the school 
girls repeated a beautiful drill, prepared especially for 
the Judson Centennial, which had just taken place in 
Burma. People came all the way from America to 
celebrate the one hundredth anniversary of the coming 
of Judson, the first missionary to Burma. Some of the 
girls wore pink silk skirts and pale blue scarves over 
their white jackets. The others wore blue silk skirts 
and pale pink scarves. Each girl carried a great 
wreath of pink paper roses and green leaves. The 
elaborate drill, with these wreaths and scarves, was ai> 



WITH JACK AND JANET 85 

exquisite sight. "How much prettier those dresses are 
than our gymnasium suits," sighed Janet. "I wish our 
teacher at home could see them." 

After the drill some of the girls talked to Janet and 
took her to see their sleeping rooms, with rows of 
white beds, and their dressing room, with its row of 
little mirrors and toilet boxes. A Burman girl keeps 
all her toilet articles and valuables in a lacquered box 
on the floor. A mirror hangs on the wall behind it, 
and she kneels on the floor to arrange her hair. 

On Sunday the family went to church in Franc's 
Chapel in the Vinton Memorial Compound and heard 
the wonderful Karen singing. The Karens are hill 
people, who are very musical. The chapel is named 
for a piece of money, which collected other pieces until 
there was enough to build this beautiful church. 

Everything that the missionaries are doing in Ran- 
goon is interesting, but, as Mr. Phinney said, Rangoon 
Baptist College is perhaps the greatest sight of all. 
Dr. and Mrs. St. John asked the Howards to come there 
to a chapel service in Cushing Hall one afternoon, in 
order that they might see the procession of boys come 
over from the recitation buildings across the street. 
The parade of sixteen hundred boys, with bright cloth- 
ing and gay parasols, marching to lively music played 
by their own band in the college yard, made a picture 
to remember. Jack and Janet thought the line of boys 
going in two by two would never end, but at last they 
were all inside the hall and the visitors followed them. 
The singing was wonderful, and the boys' faces were 
bright and thoughtful. 

Besides this college, the Howards saw two theologi- 
cal schools at Insein, a suburb of Rangoon. One is 



86 AROUND THE WORLD 

for Burmans and the other for Karens. In the com- 
pound there Jack and Janet noticed a big iron statue 
of a dog. "Perhaps you would like to hear his history," 
said one of the missionaries. "It is called the Story of 
the Iron Dog. 

"A missionary, named Mrs. Ingalls, decided that she 
must have a watch-dog and ordered one sent to her. 
When the dog came, people were surprised to see that 
it was made of iron. The Burmans were much amused 
when Mrs. Ingalls placed the iron dog in front of her 
house to keep guard. 'Have you seen my new watch- 
dog?' she would ask her callers. Then people would 
laugh and say, 'Of what use is an iron dog? He can- 
not hear the thieves coming and he cannot bark to 
warn you.' 'He is of as much use as your idols/ the 
clever little lady would reply. 'They cannot hear your 
prayers and they cannot help you/ Then she v/ould 
tell them about the God who hears and answers prayer. 
'That dog is one of the most successful missionaries in 
Burma,' Mrs. Ingalls used to say. After she died, the 
iron dog was brought to Insein, where he continues to 
teach his lesson." 

The missionaries told Jack and Janet many other 
interesting stories. Although some of them sounded 
like fairy tales, they were all true. The one the chil- 
dren liked best is called * the Story of the White Book. 

A long time ago, before the first missionaries came 
to Burma wretched tribes of people, called Karens, 
were living in the hills in the north. The Burmans on 
the plains despised and ill-treated them. The Karens 
feared and hated the Burmans, but their tribes were 



•The main facts of this story are taken from "Soo Thah" by Alonzo Bunker 
DD. Published for the Young People's Missionary Movement by Fleming 
Re.vell Company 



WITH JACK AND JANET 87 

too busy fighting each other and the neighboring tribes, 
the Chins, Kachins, and Shans, to rebel against their 
Burman oppressors. It would have been of no use to 
rebel anyway, for there were four or five times as many 
Burmans as the Karens and their neighbors put to- 
gether. 

An old legend said that before the Karens lost the 
White Book they were a strong nation. This book 
was the gift of Yuah and contained valuable teachings, 
but as the Karens did not value it enough to read it and 
to follow the teachings it was taken away from them. 
If the tribes could only recover the White Book, they 
would become united and respected again. The White 
Brother was said to have taken it, but Karen prophets 
foretold that some day he would remember that it be- 
longed to the Karen Brother and would come across 
the seas on white wings from the west to return it. 
Many people were tired of waiting for the White 
Brother and did not believe he would ever come, but 
a few still had faith in the prophecy and watched and 
looked for him. 

One day the news spread among the Karens that a 
white man and woman had come from the west in a 
ship with white sails, bringing a book. Then, even 
those who did not believe in the prophecy before, began 
to think that the White Brother had surely come. All 
were eager to see the White Book, but someone sud- 
denly remembered that not one of the Karens could 
read. Their written language had, perhaps, disap- 
peared with the book. The Burmans were more fortu- 
nate. They had a written language and a palm-leaf 
book, containing the teachings of Gautama. But the 
White Brother had brought a book, which even the 



88 AROUND THE WORLD 

Burmans were unable to read, for it was written in the 
strange tongue, which he spoke. As soon as he could 
make himself understood, the White Brother told such 
wonderful stories from the book that the Karens were 
sadder than ever that they could not read it from 
beginning to end. The White Brother made a copy of 
it in Burmese, but that did not help the Karens. 

At last other white men came out of the west and 
made letters to represent the sounds in the Karen lan- 
guage. They taught the people the letters and wrote 
the book for them. The Karens had waited too long 
for the White Book and had suffered too much because 
of their former neglect of its teachings not to make 
the best of their opportunities now. Although the 
book said nothing about how to get rich and strong, 
the teachings were good and the people accepted them. 

As the book told them to be kind to each other, they 
stopped righting and had more time to work. They 
began to build better villages and to meet together to 
praise Yuah and to read his book. The people of dif- 
ferent villages were no longer afraid of each other and 
all were interested in each other's welfare. The people 
tried to keep in touch with one another by printing a 
newspaper, which went even to the most distant vil- 
lages. Already the Karens were becoming stronger 
and more united, but the Burmans still treated them 
scornfully and told the English, who now ruled lower 
Burma, not to trust the "Karen dogs." 

A cruel king, named Theebaw, was reigning at this 
time in northern Burma. This king enjoyed nothing 
so much as torturing and killing people. The first 
thing he did was to have eighty-six of his relatives put 
to death, so that no one could dispute his right to 



- 




WITH JACK AND JANET 89 

reign. Then he gave orders for the massacre of four 
hundred innocent people, but the British troops inter- 
fered. There were fewer murders for a time, but 
before long Theebaw was planning another great 
massacre. Then the English decided that he was not 
fit to rule any longer. He was taken prisoner and sent 
over to India, where he is still living in exile. 

When the king was gone, the Burmans evidently 
missed the excitement, which he had kept up by his 
cruelties, for they began to imitate him. They formed 
robber bands, which went through the country plunder- 
ing and burning defenseless villages and torturing and 
killing people. These brigands were called dacoits. 
They were not trying to revenge themselves on the 
English for deposing their king, for they were quite as 
cruel to their own countrymen as to their foreign vic- 
tims. They were just trying to amuse themselves by 
satisfying their thirst for cruelty and plunder. No 
one was safe from the dacoits, for even the police- 
men and high officials joined them. One of the most 
dreaded was the great Ponghi, a Buddhist priest. 

One day the Karen newspaper reported that a Karen 
village had been burned, and announced that a meeting 
of delegates from all the others would be held to dis- 
cuss plans for defense. This was the first time that 
the Karen tribes had ever met together as one nation. 
The national assembly was called the Dau-ka-lu, which 
means "all the clans." At the meeting the delegates 
decided to ask the English Government to give them 
arms. In return they promised to clear the country 
of dacoits within six weeks. The British officials, who 
had accepted the Burmans' opinion of the Karens, 
were slow in answering the request, but they could not 



90 AROUND THE WORLD 

refuse protection to defenseless people and finally gave 
them the guns. They did not expect that the Karens 
could keep their promise, because the dacoits so greatly 
outnumbered the hill men. But the Karens did keep it, 
for they were now united while the dacoits were split 
up into bands hostile to each other. Within a very 
short time the great Ponghi had been captured and all 
the others on whose heads large prices were set. The 
British officials then saw that they had been wrong in 
their estimate of the hill men. The respect and confi- 
dence which began at that time have increased more 
and more since then, for the poor Karens, through their 
devotion to the White Book, have gradually become a 
united and prosperous people, as the prophecy foretold. 

Some people call Yuah Jehovah and the White Book 
the Bible. The White Brother was Adoniram Judson, 
the first missionary to Burma, who translated the Bible 
into Burmese. Other missionaries, who came later, 
gave the Karens their written language and translated 
the Bible for them. 

There is a sequel to the Story of the White Book. 

The Karens were not so selfish as to keep the White 
Book just for themselves. If they had been, another 
wonderful thing would not have happened. The Karen 
preachers, who went as missionaries to poor tribes in 
northern Burma and southwest China, discovered peo- 
ple who were much like themselves in appearance and 
who had some of the same traditions. One of the 
stories which these people told, was of their brothers 
who had wandered toward the south many years ago, 
but who would return some day. The Karens, in turn, 
had stories of their brothers who had been left behind 
and lost for many years. The brothers who had so 



WITH JACK AND JANET 91 

long been separated had found each other through the 
White Book. Then the wildest people of Burma and 
southwest China heard about the White Book through 
a man of their tribe who visited these brothers of the 
Karens. The fierce head-hunters were so impressed 
with the story that they gave up their wild ways and 
sent messengers to the missionaries asking for the 
White Book. They even offered to come half-way to 
meet the missionaries, if they would only come soon. 

No one knows where the Karens got the legend, 
which has been so much to them, and to these other 
people to whom they have carried the White Book. 
Three-fourths of the Karens are now Christians. The 
missionaries told Mr. Howard that they only wished 
that the Burmans were as ready to accept the Bible as 
the poor hill men, for it is the Burman people that make 
up four-fifths of the population of the country. They 
are so self-satisfied that it is very hard to show them 
their need of God. Then there are over twenty thou- 
sand Buddhist priests, who become rich from the offer- 
ings of the Burmans and who naturally do all that they 
can to keep them Buddhists. 

Buddhism in Burma, as in Ceylon, has never taken 
the place of the earlier Animistic beliefs. The Bur- 
mans are nat-worshippers just as much as the hill men, 
who have become Buddhists. They think that the 
nats or evil spirits cause all sickness and disaster. 

Jack and Janet were interested in the Karen story 
of the origin of nat-worship. It sounded very much 
like something they had heard before. Yuah created a 
man, Thai-nai, and a woman, Ee-u, and placed them in 
a garden. He told them to eat the fruit of any tree 
they liked except one. Then h« went away, promising 



92 AROUND THE WORLD 

to return on the seventh day. When Yuah had gone, 
Mu-kaw-lee came to the garden and tempted the man 
and woman to eat the forbidden fruit. Yuah was so 
angry that he cursed Thai-nai and Ee-u and left them. 
Then Mu-kaw-lee taught this man and woman and 
their children to worship his servants, the nats or 
demons. 

A missionary also told the twins a story called the 
Boy and the Nat. 

A Burman boy was playing chin-lone. He was 
twisting himself into all sorts of positions, in order to 
keep the ball in the air without touching it with his 
hands. He hit it with his elbow, knee, heel, neck, and 
other parts of his body until he lost his balance and fell. 
His friends had to help him home, for he had sprained 
his ankle. 

The next day the boy's mother came to the spot 
where her son had fallen. She carried a tray of rice 
and decayed fish, the food which the Burmans like best. 
She set down the tray, dug a hole in the ground with 
a stick, and buried the food. If anyone had asked her 
why she did this, she would have said, of course, that 
the food was for the nat, who lived under the ground 
and who must have been angry with her son and have 
caused his fall. 

The Burmans, as Buddhists, believe in the transmi- 
gration of souls and think that a cat or dog that follows 
a person is the soul of a relative who has died. They 
say that animals always attach themselves to their 
human relatives. On account of this belief, Buddhists 
are forbidden to take life. They are not always very 
strict, however, about eating meat if it has been killed 
by someone else. Fish is eaten with a clear conscience 




Dyak Chief and Wife. 



WITH JACK AND JANET 93 

because they say that the fish was not killed. It was 
only taken out of the water. 

The missionaries of Rangoon were so kind and enter- 
taining that the Howards were sorry to leave them, but 
plans had been made for a trip to Moulmein, where 
there is an important Baptist mission. The train left 
Rangoon at night and arrived early in the morning at 
Martaban, which is just across the river from Moul- 
mein. A big ferryboat was waiting for passengers 
from the train. The Howards were about to follow the 
others and go on board, when they noticed a little, 
white launch, tying up to the shore. It was flying the 
American flag. The sight of the stars and stripes in a 
foreign land gives every American a queer feeling in 
his throat. As Mr. Howard stopped to salute the flag, 
he saw that the people in the launch were waving 
handkerchiefs and making signs to him. They proved 
to be the missionaries from Moulmein, who had come 
with Mr. Darrow in his launch to take their guests 
across. Mr. Darrow is a missionary to the Talains, 
who are the oldest inhabitants of Burma. They came 
from Thibet, like the Burmans, but have a different 
language. 

The twins thoroughly enjoyed the trip across the 
river. Jack was rapt in Mr. Darrow's story of how he 
built the launch himself to go up the river to preach 
in out-of-the-way places. Janet, curled up in a corner, 
was thinking only of the beauty of the river. Not a 
breath of breeze stirred the peaceful water. The 
chugging of the launch sounded loud in the early 
morning stillness. The native boats passed smoothly 
and without noise. They were of dark teak, long and 
narrow, with graceful, carved prows. From the deli- 



94 AROUND THE WORLD 

cate bamboo foliage of the wooded islands and from 
every hilltop on the main land, golden or white pagodas 
rise. Janet learned that every Buddhist, who is rich 
enough, builds a pagoda to "acquire merit." The 
graceful monuments add greatly to the beauty of the 
landscape. There are so many that Janet wondered 
which one Kipling could have meant in his song. She 
wished she could hear the little bells around their tops, 
but there was no breeze to stir them. 

The river between Moulmein and Martaban is so 
wide that the crossing took rather a long time, but it 
did not seem so to the twins, who were both sorry to 
reach the landing. Carriages were waiting there for 
the missionaries. Miss Whitehead now took charge of 
the guests, whom she put into her carriage and sent to 
the Morton Lane School, she herself following in an- 
other. Morton Lane is a school for Burman girls, and 
is of the same high grade as Kemendine. The large 
white buildings stand in pleasant grounds on the street 
for which the school is named. After breakfast Miss 
Whitehead took the visitors to see the classes. The 
twins lost their hearts to Ma Thein Mya, the kinder- 
garten teacher, and to the dear little children with 
their bangs and top-knots. The primary children, too, 
were wonderfully bright and interesting. The way 
they were learning English was such fun. The teacher 
chose a little boy to stand in front of the class and act 
out things for the others to guess. "What is he 
doing?" said the teacher in English. "He is cutting the 
grass," answered the children, or "He is raking up the 
leaves," or "He is winding up the motor." It was 
more like a game than a lesson. The older girls were 
attractive and graceful in their dainty silk skirts and 



WITH JACK AND JANET 95 

fresh white jackets. Out of doors they wear thick- 
soled velvet sandals to protect their bare feet, but 
when they go into the class-room, these are placed in a 
neat row outside the door. 

Besides this school there are in Moulmein a Karen 
co-educational school, a Burman boys* high school, 
Mizpah Hall for Telugus and Tamils, and a Eurasian 
girls* school. People who are a mixture of European 
and native blood are called in the East, Eurasians. 
They usually speak English, but as they are neither 
English or native, there are often separate schools and 
churches for them . 

In the evening the twins went with the Darrow chil- 
dren to a Christian Endeavor meeting. It was held in 
the Burman church, which has several hundred mem- 
bers. The girls and boys from the various schools 
filled the church. The Burman and Karen student 
choirs took turns in singing in their own languages 
and in English. It was hard to tell which choir sang 
more sweetly. The Karens are naturally very musical, 
but the Burmans sing well, too, with training. 

The next day the Burman pastor's wife invited the 
family to come and see her pretty new house, which the 
church had built. It is quite like an American sum- 
mer cottage. Mrs. Ah Siu showed with pride the 
American stove in her kitchen and the sewing machine 
upstairs. The missionaries told Mrs. Howard that the 
immaculate house is a model to all the Burman house- 
keepers of Moulemein. 

The Howards went back to Rangoon by night, as 
they had come, feeling that the trip to Moulmein had 
been well worth while. There were other trips that 
they would have liked to take, if the steamer were not 



96 AROUND THE WORLD 

sailing so soon for Singapore. One was a boat trip up 
the Irrawady with Mr. and Mrs. Hascall to see the 
work in the jungle villages. Another was to Bassein 
to see the Karens* self-supporting church and school. 
Another was to the interesting city of Mandalay in the 
north, and to the missions to the Chins and Kachins, 
and to the Shans, who are the traders seen sitting in 
the bazaars, wearing funny broad-brimmed sun hats 
with high pointed crowns. But Mr. Howard said that 
all these sights must be left for the next visit. Before 
they realized it, Jack and Janet were on the steamer, 
sailing straight towards the Equator, 

It was a pleasant voyage, although the boat was 
crowded and the weather hot. The Howards dis- 
covered among the passengers fellow travellers of for- 
mer boats, with whom they could compare shore expe- 
riences. In the evening, when everyone dreaded going 
down to the stifling cabins to sleep, people sat on deck 
as late as possible, exchanging stories. One evening, 
as the steamer moved gently on through the calm, 
moonlit sea, someone remarked, "How safe and dull 
this voyage is nowadays compared to the times when 
Malay pirates were the terror of these waters." This 
was enough to waken Jack from his doze. He started 
up in his steamer chair at the mention of pirates, like 
a sleeping dog at the word "bone." "Aren't there any 
now?" he asked. "What became of them?" "O, after 
Singapore was founded, piracy was stopped by the 
British," was the answer. "How long ago was that?" 
asked Jack. He was ashamed to say that he did not 
know before that Singapore belongs to England. Even 
now he was not quite sure in what country it is, but 
the answer to his last question told him. "Why, 



WITH JACK AND JANET 97 

Singapore was bought by England in 1819, and in 1832 
was made the capital of the British Straits Settlements 
in Malaysia. If you look at the map, you will see how 
important the tiny dot of an island at the tip of the 1 
Malay peninsula is to British trade in the East. It 
lies at the narrow entrance from the Indian Ocean to 
the South China Sea, as the Rock of Gibraltar does from 
the Atlantic Ocean to the Mediterranean Sea. When 
Sir Stamford Raffles came out to Penang as agent of 
the British East India Company, the Dutch, who had 
large possessions in Sumatra, Java, and other islands of 
this Malay Archipelago, monopolized the trade, and the 
pirates were very dangerous. Raffles saw that if Eng- 
land should buy Singapore and make it a free port, it 
would be a good thing for the trade of all nations and 
piracy might be stopped. Government, following his 
advice, bought the island from the Malays in the year 
of Queen Victoria's birth. The only inhabitants then 
were a few hundred Malay fishermen and some Chinese 
merchants. Today there are two hundred and fifty 
thousand people of all nationalities in Singapore. Over 
fifty different languages may be heard on the streets. 
Raffles is remembered in Singapore as a Christian 
gentleman, who did as much for the natives of the 
island as for his own country." "That is very interest- 
ing," said Jack, "but I thought you were going to tell 
a pirate story." 

"How would you like to hear about an English ex- 
plorer's experiences with the wild men of Borneo?" 
asked a gentleman who had not spoken before. "That 
sounds exciting," said Jack, with such eagerness that 
the speaker was encouraged to continue. "It is a very 



98 AROUND THE WORLD 

interesting bit of history," he began. "I am going to 
call it the Strange Story of Rajah Brooke. 

"Sir James Brooke was an Englishman, fond of ad- 
venture, who left the Indian Service for the life of an 
explorer. In the year 1840 he started out in his yacht, 
equipped with cannon and trusty men, to explore the 
country of the pirates. Having heard of the savage, 
head-hunting Dyaks and half-civilized Malays, who 
inhabited Borneo, he selected that island as a likely 
spot for exciting experiences. As the boat approached 
the northern shores of Borneo, the sailors, expecting 
danger, kept strict watch, but to Sir James's surprise, 
no attack was made to prevent his party from landing. 
The explorer penetrated cautiously into the island, 
wondering that he met no one, but before long it was 
discovered why the pirates did not molest him. They 
happened to be engaged in a rebellion against their 
ruler, the Sultan of Brunei. On paying his respects to 
the Sultan, Sir James found him a good sort of fellow 
and offered his cannon and men to help put down the 
rebellion. The Sultan was so grateful for the timely 
aid that he made Sir James ruler of the next kingdom 
in place of a relative, who was not successful in man- 
aging his subjects. Sir James proved so wise and kind 
a king that within a year he was given a deed to the 
entire kingdom, a strip of rich country along the north- 
ern coast, about as large as the whole island of Java 
or as the state of New York. With it he received the 
title of Rajah Brooke of Sarawak. 

"The strange events which had decreed that he 
should spend his life at the court of Sarawak were be- 
yond any adventure that Sir James had ever imagined. 
He made up his mind to make the most of his great 



WITH JACK AND JANET 99 

opportunity to develop the country and better the con- 
dition of the people. The more he saw of the wild men 
of Borneo the better he liked them. He felt that with 
proper treatment, in time they might be tamed. He 
taught them agriculture and invited missionaries to 
his court to help him. Since Sir James's death, his 
nephew has become Rajah. He, too, encourages mis- 
sionaries to work among the people. A bishop of the 
Church of England lives at the Court of Sarawak. As 
there is room for many more than the two millions of 
natives of this kingdom, the Rajah welcomes colonists. 
He prefers Christian colonists. In 1901 he lent a large 
sum of money to a company to bring Christian families 
from South China, where there are too many people 
and dreadful famines. Six hundred of these three 
thousand Chinese colonists are Methodists and have 
their own missionary from America, Mr. Hoover. The 
latest innovation is an agricultural missionary, who 
has brought motor plows and other up-to-date farm 
machines. These must have astonished the inhabi- 
tants, who have always plowed with water buffaloes, 
which work five hours a day at the rate of a mile and a 
half an hour. 

"It is impossible to finish this story. We can only 
imagine the happy ending, which it is sure to have, if 
the future Rajahs Brooke carry out the ideals of their 
predecessors. There is room for forty or fifty million 
prosperous Christian people to live in the kingdom of 
Sarawak, and this is likely to be the happy ending of 
my narrative." 

"That was a mighty good story," said Jack. He 
wanted to ask for another, but Mrs. Howard rose to 



100 AROUND THE WORLD 

say good night, and the others also remembered that 
it was time to retire. 

All the next day, which was the third one of the voy- 
age, the steamer passed beautiful mountainous islands, 
covered with trees, and the morning after reached the 
lovely harbor of Penang. Here the boat lost some of 
her passengers, who were going to visit the tin mines 
on the mainland and follow on a later boat. The How- 
ards were content with the day on shore, which this 
boat allowed them. They found Penang very beauti- 
ful, with wide, white roads, bordered by groves of 
palms. The large, square houses of the English, who 
own this island as well as Singapore, were not built for 
beauty but for coolness and comfort. Besides the 
palm, whose many uses Whittier describes so cleverly, 
a great deal of rubber is grown. The greatest export 
is tin. Seven-tenths of the world's tin comes from the 
Malay peninsula. 

The Malays are Mohammedans, but there are as 
many religions as nationalities in Malaysia. The How- 
ards, in their short stay in Penang, saw both Buddhist 
and Hindu worship. They found the Chinese Bud- 
dhist Temple there very different from the pagoda at 
Rangoon. After a long ride along a broad, straight 
road between rows of giant palms, the rickshaws left 
them at the foot of some wide steps, from which beg- 
gars sprang to follow them. At the top of the steps 
was a small temple, in which a few Chinese were 
burning paper prayers and shaking fortune sticks. 
The twins saw a little girl and boy learn to kneel and 
knock their heads on the ground before the Buddha. 
At the top of some more steps behind the temple is a 
Buddha fish pond full of great turtles. Men stand near 



WITH JACK AND JANET 101 

it, selling bunches of green weeds to feed them. On 
the way back to the town the rickshaws passed a 
Hindu festival. Gigantic wooden figures of the god 
Siva and his wife and family with men inside were 
whirling round and round in the road to the music of 
drums and tom-toms. A crowd of Hindus was gath- 
ered about them. After dining at the Hotel Eastern 
and Oriental, which faces the sea, the family returned 
to the steamer. 

The boat left Penang after midnight and in twenty- 
four hours landed her passengers at Singapore. Here 
the Howards were obliged to spend four days waiting 
for their boat to Hong Kong. At first they were afraid 
that this was a great waste of time, for it was not long 
enough for a trip to Java or to any of the other islands, 
but they soon discovered that Singapore is not only a 
delightful city but one full of interest. The first day 
the twins noticed a great many Chinese going about in 
rickshaws. The ladies were gaily dressed and wore 
heavy gold jewelry and much paint and powder. They 
were told at their hotel, which, like everything else, is 
named for Raffles, that the Chinese were celebrating 
the New Year and would have their fireworks on the 
esplanade in front of the hotel in the evening. The 
twins thought it queer to be celebrating New Year's 
on the tenth of February. They were much interested 
in the fireworks and in the crowd that assembled to 
see them. 

Besides the Museum and the Botanical Gardens, the 
Howards, of course, wanted to see some missions. On 
enquiring at the Methodist Book Store, they learned 
that the American missions in Malaysia are all of the 
Methodist Episcopal Church. They also met there an 



102 AROUND THE WORLD 

interesting missionary, Mr. Denyes, who came to the 
hotel to take them to see a school for boys, called 
Oldham Hall. It has fourteen hundred students of 
many nationalities. Bishop Oldham, for whom the 
school is named, was the first Methodist missionary to 
Malaysia. 

"When Mr. Oldham came here in 1885," said Mr. 
Denyes, "there were no American missions in the 
islands. The Congregationalists tried to start one in 
1834 among the wild Battaks of Sumatra, but the two 
young men, who were sent there, were killed and eaten 
by the Battaks. 

"Our mission was founded by Dr. Thoburn, after- 
wards made bishop, who left his work in India long 
enough to bring Mr. Oldham to Singapore and to help 
him to start a church here. In opening and building 
up his schools, Mr. Oldham was helped by rich Chinese 
merchants, who were glad to have their sons receive 
an English education. Within five years after Mr. 
Oldham's arrival Woman's Work and the Mission 
Press had been founded." 

The Howards went with Mrs. Denyes to see a school 
for girls at the Mary Nind Deaconess Home on the hill 
and to another, where Mrs. Denyes's own daughter 
was studying with girls of seven nationalities. She 
told Janet that although she liked the girls, it was hard 
to be the only American in the school.' 

"I wish you could see our mission in Java," said 
Mrs. Denyes, "that the Epworth Leagues of the Pitts- 
burg Conference support. The students of North- 
western University have also helped the Java mission 
to open a school." 

"Java belongs to the Dutch, doesn't it?" said Jack. 




Sons of a McTyeire Graduate. 



WITH JACK AND JANET 103 

"Yes," said Mrs. Denyes, "and there are many more 
people in Java than in little Holland. It is the most 
populous of the islands and the inhabitants are very 
prosperous. There are fifty million people in Java and 
only four million in Sumatra, which is much larger. 
All the islands are fertile and beautiful, with moun- 
tains, many of which are active volcanoes, and forests 
filled with tropical fruits and wild animals, but with 
very few people. The custom of collecting human 
skulls has kept down the number of the inhabitants. 
The Dyaks do not consider it respectable to think of 
marrying and setting-up housekeeping without a net 
full of skulls to hang over the family hearth. This 
habit is connected with their dim ideas of religion. 
The skulls are fetiches or charms." 

"How large are all the islands put together?" asked 
Janet. 

"I believe their total area is equal to one-fifth the 
area of the United States. There is room and to spare 
for the crowds of Chinese and Tamils, who are leaving 
their over-populated countries every year to make 
homes here. As parts of Borneo and Sumatra and 
other whole islands are still unexplored, there is little 
danger of over population for some time. The Philip- 
pines are a part of this archipelago and the Filipinos 
are Malays." 

"Which nationality is the most enterprising?" asked 
Mr. Howard. 

"The Chinese are the leaders in managing the mines 
and commerce. The Tamils do the rough labor. 
The Malays stay peacefully in the background and do 
not enter into new activities very much. It would be 
rather hard on them to have all these foreign races 



104 



AROUND THE WORLD 



outnumbering them and taking possession of their 
country, if it were not being developed and improved 
as it never would have been by the unprogressive 
Malays. The Chinese are the leaders in education, 
too. In Java and Sumatra there is a Chinese Reform 
Association, which supports schools and engages mis- 
sionaries as teachers and examiners." 

"What about your churches?" asked Mrs. Howard. 
"Are people as interested in religion as in education?" 

"The evangelistic work is the hardest," said Mrs. 
Denyes, "because of the many languages a preacher 
must know and because so many of his converts return 
soon to their own countries. It is discouraging to lose 
our church members in this way, but often we hear 
that by their Christian lives they are missionaries to 
their own people. Sometimes the example of one 
Christian, who goes back to China, converts a whole 
village. One of our church members, who had disap- 
peared, wrote not long ago, asking to have a mission- 
ary sent to Borneo to baptize three or four hundred 
cocoanut growers, who had been converted by the 
influence of this one Chinaman." 

The four days at Singapore passed very quickly. "I 
wish we could stay longer," said Jack, as he went on 
board the steamer for Hong Kong. "But I am coming 
back some day to make explorations among the Bat- 
taks of Sumatra. When I am Rajah Howard, you 
will all want to visit me." 



WITH JACK AND JANET 105 



QUESTIONS ON CHAPTER IV. 

1. What did Mr. Howard notice on the first day in 
Rangoon? 

2. Describe Jack and Janet's visit to Shwe Dagon. 

3. What mission work did the Howard family see 
in Rangoon? 

4. What stories did the missionaries tell the twins? 

5. Describe the visit to Moulmein. 

6. Where is Singapore and to what nation does it 
belong? 

7. What American mission is in Singapore? 

8. Give the names and sizes of as many islands as 
you can in the Malay Archipelago. 

9. Tell all you can about the people who live in 
them. 

10. Tell the story of Rajah Brooke. 




3 



CHINA 

Land of wonders, fair Cathay, 

Who long hast shunned the staring day, 

Hid in mists of poet's dreams 

By thy blue and yellow streams, — 

Let us thy shadowed form behold, — 

Teach us as thou didst of old. 

Knowledge dwells with length of days; 
Wisdom walks in ancient ways; 
Thine the compass that could guide 
A nation o'er the stormy tide, 
Scourged by passions, doubts, and fears, 
Safe through thrice a thousand years! 

Looking from thy turrets gray 
Thou hast seen the world's decay, — 
Egypt drowning in her sands, — 
Athens rent by robbers' hands, — 
Rome, the wild barbarian's prey, 
Like a storm-cloud swept away: 

Looking from thy turrets gray 
Still we see thee. Where are they? 
And lo! a new-born nation waits, 
Sitting at the golden gates 
That glitter by the sunset sea, — 
Waits with outspread arms for thee! 

Open wide, ye gates of gold, 
To the Dragon's banner-fold! 
Builders of the mighty wall, 
Bid your mighty barriers fall! 
So may the girdle of the sun 
Bind the East and West in one. 

OLIVER WENDELL HOLMES. 



CHAPTER V. 

THE MIDDLE FLOWERY KINGDOM. 

ON the fifth morning after leaving Singapore, 
the decks of the steamship Kleist were . de- 
serted. Everyone was packing to go ashore. 
Pith topees and summer clothing were put 
away and light woolen suits and ordinary hats taken 
out, for the weather was no longer tropical. 

In the afternoon the decks were full of life again, 
for it was almost time to land at Hong Kong. The 
steamer was now running along a winding channel, 
hemmed in on both sides by rocky, mountainous 
islands. A sudden turn brought her passengers face to 
face with a startling sight. Jack and Janet exclaimed 
with surprise at their first view of Hong Kong. 

"An enemy would find it hard to capture this port," 
said Jack, looking with admiration at the great moun- 
tains that rise about the harbor and at the terraced city 
climbing up their steep sides. 

"Could anything be more beautiful?" said Janet, 
looking with awe toward the tops of the mountains. 

A tender took the passengers ashore. It did not 
matter to the Howards that both hotels were crowded. 
Mr. Howard had already decided not to stop at Hong 
Kong, but to take the river boat that evening for 
Canton. The family agreed that it would be more fun 
to see a real Chinese city than to spend much time in 
an English centre like Hong Kong. Besides, as they 
must return in a week anyway, to sail for Shanghai, 
there would be another chance to buy Swatow drawn 



110 AROUND THE WORLD 

work, to visit the Botanical Gardens, and to go up the 
peak, — the proper things to do in Hong Kong. 

The twins were glad that their boat sailed after dark 
that evening, giving them a chance to see the beau- 
tiful city at night. Then bright lights shine out on the 
dark mountain side, while on the black water below, 
dance the fairy lights of another city, not a reflection 
of the one above nor of the starry sky, but a real city 
of hundreds of little Chinese house boats, huddled 
together in the harbor. 

"China is a tremendous country," said Mr. Howard 
to the twins, as they stood on deck watching the 
lights. "I wish we could have several months here, 
but we must be content to visit only four cities, — 
Canton, Shanghai, Nanking, and Peking." 

"Why don't you count Hong Kong?" asked Janet. 

"Well, Hong Kong isn't exactly in China," said Mr. 
Howard. "It is on Victoria Island, which belongs to 
Great Britain." 

"That's funny," said Jack. "Hong Kong sounds 
Chinese enough. How did England get it?" 

"I am sorry to say that Great Britain's victory in the 
Opium War gave her the island," said Mr. Howard. 
"It was then almost uninhabited, except by British 
merchants in the opium trade. It is sad to think that 
a Christian nation forced opium on China, but the 
war had one good result. The Treaty of Nanking, 
signed in 1842, opened five ports to foreigners. Before 
that, Canton was the only open port. This gave mis- 
sionaries a chance to reach more people." 

"I suppose the Chinese don't like the British, then," 
said Jack. "Do they like Americans?" 

"Yes, China looks upon America as her friend. The 



WITH JACK AND JANET 111 

Chinese say that the United States is the only nation 
with a conscience, because she has not taken land and 
she has helped fight opium. Besides, our Government 
was the first to recognize China as a republic. This 
old nation is our youngest but, at the same time, our 
biggest sister republic." 

"Chinese history must be interesting," said Jack. 
"I wish I had a book about it." 

"Wait until you have plenty of time for reading," 
advised his father, "before starting on Chinese history. 
It began so long before ours that it fills many books. 
As we are to be in China such a little while, you will 
have to keep your eyes wide open in order to see as 
much as you can." 

"I can't keep mine open much longer tonight," said 
Mrs. Howard. "The lights are all gone now. If we 
are to land early in the morning, don't you think we 
ought to go to bed?" 

"Yes, mother," said Jack, "but I want to ask first if 
we know any missionaries in China. They always 
show us such interesting things." 

"We are going to stay with missionaries in every 
city," said Mr. Howard. "In Canton we are invited to 
visit Dr. Edmunds, the President of Canton Christian 
College. As boys we went to the same school. Now 
he is a famous scientist. I have a letter saying that he 
has just been away working on a magnetic survey of 
China for the Carnegie Institute in Washington, but 
that now he is at home and expecting us. I have tele- 
graphed, asking him to meet this boat." 

"Good," said the twins. Then saying good night, 
they hurried down to their staterooms. 

In the morning, as soon as it was light, Jack and 



112 AROUND THE WORLD 

Janet went on deck. The boat was slowly approach- 
ing the busy port of Canton and the river was full of 
shipping. Great junks were passing, laden with rich 
cargoes of silk and tea. Most of these boats have a 
large, life-like eye painted on either side of the bow, so 
that they need not follow their course blindly. In 
contrast to the dignified junks, funny little sampans 
ferry people from one bank to the other or carry vege- 
tables to market. Women, with babies on their backs, 
stand to do the rowing. Thousands of sampans used 
as house boats are anchored along the banks. Over 
sixty thousand Cantonese live on them. There are 
often so many boats crowded together at the landings 
that the only way to get ashore is to use their decks as 
a bridge, stepping from one to another. The twins 
noticed that the largest families sometimes live on the 
smallest boats. In their narrow quarters they bathe, 
wash their clothes, drink their tea, eat their rice with 
chopsticks from little bowls, and worship at the red- 
paper shrine in the covered end of the boat as uncon- 
cernedly as if their neighbors on the other boats could 
not see all that they are doing. The river life was so 
interesting that Jack and Janet were sorry to go in 
to breakfast. The family waited until Dr. Edmunds 
arrived, to go on shore. 

"This narrow strip of water front, that lies outside 
the city walls, is called the Bund," said Dr. Edmunds, 
as his guests stepped on land. "Only a small part of 
it has been conceded to foreigners and there is no room 
to spare within the city walls. Now I have explained 
why the college is on an island six miles away. You 
must make up your minds to become a part of the* 
river life while you are here and to go everywhere by 



WITH JACK AND JANET 113 

boat. A Chinese gentleman, the brother of one of our 
students, has given the college a launch, which makes 
regular trips to the city every day. There it is now. 
If we miss it, we shall have to be rowed in one of these 
slow sampans. Come along, Jack and Janet. All 
aboard for Canton Christian College." 

The trip to the island was made quickly in the fast 
launch. Then there was a short walk along a narrow 
path, that leads between rice fields up a hill to the 
college buildings. 

"This looks like America," said Mr. Howard. 
"What fine buildings!" 

"They were built from American plans," said Dr. 
Edmunds, "with a few changes by our Chinese builder. 
We are trying to combine the beautiful characteristics 
of Chinese architecture with the best in our own. Do 
you see the curves of the roofs? Those were probably 
suggested to the earliest builders by the roofs of the 
tents, in which the Chinese lived, when they were a 
wandering people. Then notice the round, green tiles. 
The yellow and green tiles used to be made only for 
imperial buildings, but now that China is a republic 
anyone can use them. They harmonize well with 
the grey Chinese bricks and are very durable. It is 
cheaper to build with brick than with wood, because 
the forests of this country are pretty well used up f 
Here we are at my new house." 

After meeting Mrs. Edmunds and resting for a few 
minutes, the Howards received a call from the super- 
intendent of the Agricultural School, Mr. Groff, who 
invited them to take a walk about his model farm. He 
explained that while the Chinese know a great deal 
about farming, they would do better with modern 



114 AROUND THE WORLD 

plows and new methods, instead of working year after 
year in the same way and with tools exactly like those 
used by their ancestors. 

"The graves of the ancestors take so much room 
that there is scarcely land enough for the living," said 
Mr. Groff, pointing to the fields filled with grass-grown 
ridges, cones, and horseshoe-shaped mounds. "These 
are the graves of people whose names are forgotten. 
As they lived centuries ago, all their descendants are 
dead and there is no one left to worship their spirits." 

"Do the Chinese worship their ancestors?" asked 
Janet. "I thought they were Buddhists." 

"There are three kinds of worship in China," said 
Mr. Groff, "Ancestor Worship, Buddhism, and Taoism. 
A Confucianist, who worships his ancestors, may at 
the same time be a Buddhist and a Taoist. Confucius 
lived in China at the same time that Gautama lived in 
India. Buddhism was not known here until the first 
century after Christ, when the Emperor Ming-ti heard 
of a new foreign religion and sent scholars abroad 
to enquire about it. They brought back Buddhism. 
What if they had found Christianity! How different 
China's history would have been! I wonder where 
America would be today, if she had not had the Chris- 
tian religion." 

"What was that other religion you spoke of?" asked 
Jack. "I never heard of it before." 

"O, Taoism is the name given to the teachings of 
Lao-tze, who lived just before Confucius. Lao-tze 
tried to teach people to follow the path of virtue. Tao 
means way or path. Taoism is now a sort of demon 
worship, with many gods. One of the chief gods is the 
dragon, the spirit of seas, lakes, and rivers. Neither 



WITH JACK AND JANET 115 

Lao-tze or Confucius taught about God or a future life, 
but they gave their disciples many helpful rules for 
this life. Confucius even taught good manners. His 
teachings were written down by his disciples after his 
death, and the Chinese have studied them faithfully 
ever since. The Four Books written by the disciples 
and the Five Classics edited by Confucius have for all 
these years been the only school books of Chinese 
children. 

"The most important teaching of Confucius is to 
honor the head of the family. When a father dies, the 
oldest son must leave work for a time to worship his 
father's spirit. He must also offer food and drink to 
the spirits of the other ancestors, whose ancestral 
tablets are in the house, and burn paper money and 
clothing on their graves. People say that if there is 
no son to provide for the needs of the ancestors, their 
spirits must starve. On this account it is important 
for every family to have sons, and boys are treated 
with more respect than girls." 

"Can't you ever use ground that has old graves on 
it?" asked Jack. 

"O, yes, we can buy it, but we have to pay three 
dollars extra for each grave, to have the contents care- 
fully removed to another place." 

While Mr. Groff was speaking, Jack and Janet saw 
a young man coming across the fields with a flock of 
children. As the group passed, Jack noticed that the 
children were much interested in some black mud, 
which the young man held carefully in his hands as 
though it were very precious. 

"That is Sz-to, the principal of the primary school," 
said Mr. Groff. "He takes the children out for nature 



116 AROUND THE WORLD 

study. I believe he has some tadpoles to show 
the kindergarten classes. We call him our Chinese 
Froebel. Children and flowers are his hobbies. After 
graduating from the middle school, which is the high 
school department of the college, he taught drawing 
there for a short time, but soon gave that up to start a 
kindergarten. This has become so popular that he has 
to keep raising the tuition and refusing to take more 
pupils. The college students are so interested in 
Sz-to's school that their Y. M. C. A. gives all the 
money needed for expenses. Other Chinese have given 
two cottages to start a 'primary village.' Here come 
Mrs. Woods and her children to take you over there." 

The two Woods boys, taking possession of Jack, led 
the way, as the party left Mr. Groff and started toward 
the kindergarten. Jack found out from Tom Woods 
that his father is vice-president of the college and at 
the head of the medical school. Jack said he didn't 
know before that colleges had both kindergartens and 
medical schools, and Tom said he supposed there 
weren't many colleges as good as his father's. Janet 
made friends with the little Woods twins, who shyly 
told her their names were Margaret and Janet. 

Mr. Sz-to was watering the rows of yellow and white 
marguerites under his office windows, when the guests 
arrived. The children were having recess out of doors. 
Some were playing with balls and others, in imitation 
of their teacher, were examining their small gardens. 
They all wore clean white cotton suits and little round 
white cotton hats. 

"I didn't know that the Chinese were so much 
like Americans," said Janet, after leaving the school. 



WITH JACK AND JANET 117 

"I thought they all wore queues and were different 
from us." 

"So did I," said Jack. "I thought a Chinaman 
wouldn't part with his queue for anything." 

"Styles have changed since China became a repub- 
lic," said Mrs. Woods. "Queues are quite out of date 
now. I wonder if you know why Chinamen first wore 
them. The Manchus started the fashion when they 
began their rule in 1645. The first of these foreign 
emperors from Manchuria commanded the Chinese 
men to shave a portion of the head and wear the queue 
instead of tying their hair in a topknot. The Chinese 
objected at first, saying that this would mark them 
as slaves of the Manchus. Then the emperor com- 
manded all criminals to cut the queue and let the hair 
grow on the shaved part of the head. Queues at once 
became very popular. When the revolutionists decided 
that it was time the Manchus stopped ruling, they cut 
their queues to show that the Manchus no longer had 
power over the Chinese." 

"Did the Manchus start the fashion of small feet 
among the Chinese women?" asked Mrs. Howard. 

"No, the Manchus have never bound their feet, and 
did not interfere with styles among the Chinese 
women. I often wish that they had done away with 
the painful custom of foot-binding, when I see how 
poor little girls suffer from it, but now that there is a 
Chinese anti-foot-binding society, 'golden lilies' will 
soon be as old-fashioned as queues." 

"Everybody keeps saying, 'Now that China is a 
republic,' " said Jack. "I wish somebody would tell 
me how China happened to become a republic." 



118 AROUND THE WORLD 

"Suppose you ask my husband," said Mrs. Woods. 
"We are on our way to his office now." 

"The story of how China became a republic is rather 
long," said Dr. Woods, when the family were seated in 
his office, "but I will try to make it short. Of course, 
you know that there was a revolution, that the Reform 
Party won, and that since 1912 China has been a 
republic, the very first one in Asia. Perhaps you don't 
know about the events that led up to the revolution. 
The one which showed China's need of reform in gov- 
ernment and education was the war with Japan in 
1894. China's defeat in this war about Korea was a 
very good thing, for it showed that something was 
wrong, if a great country like China could be beaten 
so easily by a little nation like Japan. It set people to 
thinking about the foreign education, which had made 
Japan powerful. Many Chinese now saw that it would 
be better if their country would follow Japan's example 
and learn from western nations instead of trying to 
keep foreigners out of China. The Emperor's aunt, 
the great Empress Dowager, who was the real ruler of 
China, did not approve of foreign influence because she 
feared that with foreign help the Chinese would shake 
off the rule of the Manchus. The young Emperor 
Kuang Hsu, however, was in favor of reform. His 
interest in the ways of foreigners began when he was a 
little boy. Although the Winter Palace, where he 
lived in Peking, was called the Forbidden City, because 
foreigners were forbidden to enter the grounds, the 
little boy heard about them and their wonderful me- 
chanical toys and refused to play with Chinese toys. 
As he outgrew the foreign toys, which were bought for 
him, he wanted other amusements and ordered all sorts 




o 



WITH JACK AND JANET 119 

of foreign inventions like telephones, electric fans, 
a phonograph, and a bicycle. He even had a steam 
launch put in the lotus pond in the garden and a 
miniature railway built. 

"Then the Emperor became interested in foreign 
books. The first one brought into the palace was a 
New Testament, which the Christian women of Peking 
sent to the Empress Dowager on her sixtieth birth- 
day. When the Emperor heard of it, he, too, wanted a 
Bible. After studying the Bible, which was bought 
for him, he ordered all the foreign books that were 
printed in Chinese and studied them. Then, just as he 
had wanted foreign things for himself, he began to 
want them for his country. He did not see why China 
should not have schools and railways like those of the 
western nations. 

"The Emperor's tutor, K'ang Yu-wei, became his 
chief adviser. Together they began to plan reforms. 
A Chinese boy's education had always consisted in 
learning the teachings of Confucius and his disciples 
by heart, and girls were not sent to school. Railroads 
were not built and mines were not opened for fear of 
angering the spirits in the ground. Therefore, the 
Emperor appointed a Board of Education, a Board 
of Railroads, and a Board of Mines. Perhaps the 
Emperor was too hasty in the way he went about his 
reforms. At any rate, in the summer of 1898 some of 
the officials, whom he had dismissed, went to the 
Empress Dowager, who was staying at the Summer 
Palace near Peking, to urge her to come back to the 
city before things went too far. When the Emperor 
heard of what had been done, he ordered Yuan Shi Ki 
to go with his troops and imprison the Empress in the 



120 AROUND THE WORLD 

Summer Palace. Yuan Shi Ki knew that the Empress 
was surrounded by the most powerful officials and that 
this would be a dangerous thing to do. Instead of 
obeying the Emperor, he sent word to the Empress, 
who went at once to the Winter Palace and imprisoned 
the Emperor instead. K'ang Yu-wei fled. 

"Just then something happened, which started a 
strong feeling against foreigners. Two German priests 
were murdered in China, and troops came to demand 
that a port be given to Germany in return for the 
wrong done her. Then Russia, Great Britain, France, 
and Italy said that they would each like a port and 
each took one. The injustice of these nations turned 
the people against foreigners and their religion. In 
1900 the Boxers, an anti-foreign society in the north, 
determined to kill every foreigner in China and every 
Chinese, who had anything to do with them or their 
religion. 

"The massacre of missionaries and all foreigners, 
who could not get to places of safety, was terrible. 
One hundred and thirty-five missionaries and fifty- 
three children, besides thousands of Chinese Chris- 
tians, were killed by the Boxers. Those who were 
able to get to the British Legation in Peking were 
saved. From June twentieth until August fourteenth 
the legation was besieged by the Boxers, encouraged 
by the Empress Dowager. The foreign armies, which 
at last arrived to release the besieged, did not appear 
any too soon. In a few days more the Boxers would 
have taken the legation, for they had dug underground 
almost up to the walls. 

"When the armies of eight nations appeared in 
Peking, the Empress Dowager and her court decided 



WITH JACK AND JANET 121 

that it was time for them to leave. After an exile of 
two years, they were invited by the foreigners to 
return on condition that a large sum of money be paid 
to each nation for the buildings that had been de- 
stroyed and the way that their citizens had been 
treated. The Empress had learned a lesson. As she 
could not keep out foreigners, she made the best of 
things. 

"Great reforms were begun. Besides carrying out 
all of those planned by Kuang Hsu, the Empress added 
several of her own. The most wonderful was her 
attempt to stop the use of opium by commanding that 
poppies should be grown less each year and in ten 
years not at all. Great Britain, sorry for the wrong 
she had done, promised that if China would do 
this, she would stop sending opium from India. The 
Empress also decided to give China a constitution. 
She sent a committee to Europe and America to study 
forms of government and schools. These reforms 
were more than ever necessary, for in 1904 Japan again 
showed her strength in a victory over Russia. 

"In November, 1908, the Empress Dowager and the 
Emperor both died, no one knew just how, and a two- 
year-old boy became the Emperor Hsuan Tung. As 
long as the Manchus remained in power, the Chinese 
people were not treated fairly. The Revolutionary 
Party, which had been founded by Dr. Sun Yat Sen, 
began to prepare in secret for war. This broke out on 
October 9, 1911, when through an explosion in a secret 
bomb factory in the Russian quarter at Hankow, the 
plans of the revolutionists were discovered and they 
were obliged to fight for their lives. The Revolu- 
tionary Army under General Li and the Imperial Army 



122 AROUND THE WORLD 

under General Chang fought fiercely for several 
months, but a truce was finally declared by Yuan 
Shi Ki, the leader of the Imperial Party. Although 
the revolutionists were no match for the trained 
Imperial soldiers, Yuan Shi Ki saw that most of the 
people were in sympathy with the reformers and in 
order to save his country from a long war, he gave in 
to them. The peace conference began December 18, 
1911. Just then Sun Yat Sen, who had been in exile, 
returned and on January 1, 1912, was made temporary 
president of the new Republic at Nanking, the first 
capital. On March 10, 1912, he resigned his place to 
Yuan Shi Ki, who also has the good of China at heart. 
The capital is now at Peking. 

"Since the revolution a new flag has taken the place 
of the old dragon pennant. The flag of the Republic 
of China has five stripes. The red one at the top 
stands for the eighteen provinces of China proper. 
The one below is yellow for Manchuria. The next is 
pale blue for Mongolia, the next white for Thibet, and 
the last black for Chinese Turkestan." 

"I understand better about China now," said Jack. 
"Thank you ever so much. I hope I can remember all 
this to put in my notebook." 

As it was now almost luncheon time, the family 
started back toward Dr. Edmunds's house. On the 
way Mrs. Woods pointed out the hospital, the tem- 
porary mat-shed chapel, and the professors' houses. 
In front of the recitation building a squad of boys in 
trim blue uniforms with brass buttons and gold braid 
were having military drill. 

At luncheon the Howards met Miss Mitchell, a 
young lady who had just come from America to take 




Photograph by N. R. Waterbury 

Manchu Lady Leaving Dr. Leonard's Hospital, 
Presbyterian Mission, Peking. 



WITH JACK AND JANET 123 

charge of the girls' department of the college. She 
told how anxious both the girls and their brothers are 
to go to America for study. The United States Gov- 
ernment has invited them to come, giving back the 
indemnity money received from China after the Boxer 
troubles, to be used to send Chinese boys and girls to 
college in America. The Chinese Government holds 
an examination every year for those who would like to 
win an indemnity scholarship. As the examinations 
of Canton Christian College meet the requirements of 
the regents of New York State, the graduates of the 
middle school are well prepared to enter American 
colleges. Miss Mitchell said that about one hundred 
boys and girls expected to go very soon from C. C. C. 
to America. Besides their English examinations, the 
students have to pass others in Chinese, for of course 
they must know their own literature and history. 

Everything so far had been almost too American to 
satisfy the twins, who had come to Canton expecting 
to see a Chinese city. As if reading their thoughts, 
Dr. Edmunds proposed a trip to town that afternoon. 
He said that he must attend to some important busi- 
ness, but that if Jack and Janet would like to go, Mr. 
Greybill, who is principal of the middle school, and 
Professor Fuson, would be glad to take them. 

Mr. and Mrs. Howard stayed at home to rest, but 
the twins started directly after luncheon for the Bund. 
There, with both rickshaws and chairs to choose from, 
Jack and Janet were glad that their guides selected 
chairs. When each was settled in his little black house 
on poles, directions were given to the coolies to go 
through some of the interesting streets of the shopping 
district. Once inside the walls, the twins saw why 



124 AROUND THE WORLD 

rickshaws are only of use outside on the Bund. The 
streets are too narrow for rickshaws and some have 
steps, over which wheels could not travel. The chairs 
almost touched the walls on either side, as the coolies 
marched along the streets, shouting to people to get 
out of the way, when they turned corners with the 
awkward long poles. 

In all their lives the twins had never been in such 
dark, dirty alleys as the streets of Canton. As the 
procession of chairs passed through Jade Street, Ivory 
Street, Embroidery Street, and Kingfisher Street, 
where jewelry is made from the feathers of this bird, 
Jack and Janet saw many beautiful things in the tiny 
shops and many strange-looking people. Jack thought 
some of them looked jolly, but Janet could not get used 
to women in trousers and to the ghastly effect of the 
paint and powder on their faces. 

It was all very interesting, but the twins were con- 
tent to return to the island. Arriving there in time for 
tea, Jack learned that an exciting baseball game had 
been played while he had been gone. The mission- 
aries had tied with the men from the American gun- 
boat, which had arrived in Canton that morning. Mrs. 
Edmunds and the other ladies were serving tea and 
cakes for the men. 

Jack and Janet made other visits to the Chinese city, 
and saw each time new and interesting sights. They 
found that the little doors in the high walls of the 
dark alleys sometimes lead into large grounds with 
nice houses. Some of these belong to American mis- 
sions. The hospital and medical school belonging to 
the Presbyterian mission have several fine stone build- 
ings in a part of the city which was a pig village when 



WITH JACK AND JANET 125 

the land was bought, but which is now in the most 
aristocratic neighborhood. Dr. Mary Fulton, who 
has charge of the medical mission, has to write or 1 
translate the text-books which the girls use, for 
although the Chinese know something of medicine 
they know nothing of surgery and there are no text- 
books on medical subjects. The missionaries opened 
the first schools for girls in China. Now girls are 
educated like their brothers and are even becoming 
famous doctors. Dr. Mary Stone, Dr. Ida Kahn, and 
Dr. Hu King Eng, who studied medicine in America, 
are known all over China. 

Besides the medical school, the Presbyterian mission 
has a fine high school for girls, called True Light 
Seminary. The Congregationalists also have a school 
for girls. 

Mr. and Mrs. Howard did not take the twins to the 
island, where Dr. Mary Niles has her blind school, 
fearing that the little blind slave girls, whom she is 
teaching, would be too pitiful a sight. 

The Southern Baptist mission interested the twins 
very much. The children were having school in a 
mat-shed. In a building not far away their mothers 
were learning to read and write. 

The day the Howards left Canton, the rain came 
down in torrents, just as it does in America in the 
spring. For the first time since leaving America, the 
twins put on raincoats and rubbers. The Chinese 
farmers also put on raincoats of straw, which shed the 
water like thatched roofs. With hats to match their 
coats, the people look like walking haystacks. 

After a day in Hong Kong, the family went on 
board the American steamer, which had just come 



126 AROUND THE WORLD 

from the Philippines. It seemed homelike to hear the 
American accent of the captain and officers instead of 
German or English. As the boat came near Shanghai, 
the sea became choppy and the weather very cold. 
When the tender went from the steamer up the river, 
past shipping from every country, the twins felt as 
though they were coming into New York. Shanghai 
is not a Chinese port like Canton. It belongs to all 
nations. France and England own large sections of 
the city called the French and British Concessions. 
People of every nationality live in Shanghai. The 
broad boulevards and the modern brick blocks, which 
have been built by the foreigners, might be in anyi 
American or European city. 

The Howards spent a pleasant week in Shanghai, 
visiting their friends the Staffords. Jack and Janet 
thought that they had seen about every kind of mis- 
sionary, but Mr. Stafford is neither a minister, a pro- 
fessor, a doctor, or an industrial missionary. He is a 
financial missionary, the business manager of Baptist 
missions in China. Mrs. Stafford said that, of course, 
no one is interested in her husband's work, for he has 
nothing to show but a row of account books, but that 
it is important just the same. The twins liked Mr. 
Stafford very much, especially as he devoted his time 
to taking them about. 

As there are American missions of every denomina- 
tion in Shanghai, the Howards did not try to visit 
them all. What they did see made them feel more 
than ever that Chinese Christians are the strongest, 
finest, most progressive people in the world. 

One spring-like afternoon the family motored out 
along the beautiful Bubbling Well Road to take tea 



WITH JACK AND JANET 127 

with Mrs. Pott, whose husband is President of St. 
John's College of the Protestant Episcopal mission. 
The college campus is large and beautiful, with broad 
lawns and fine trees. It was once the estate of a 
wealthy Englishman. Jack and Janet enjoyed seeing 
the military drill on the lawn. Many of the leading 
officials of China are graduates of St. John's College. 
Next door to St. John's is St. Mary's Orphanage. 
Mrs. Pott took her guests over there, to see the out- 
of-door games. The girls looked so pretty, and were 
having such a good time, that Janet wished she could 
stay and get acquainted with them. 

On the way home Mr. Howard called at the Harvard 
Medical School to see one of the doctors, whom he 
knew. The twins watched the little convalescent 
children in the hospital eat their supper. 

One of the most wonderful missions in Shanghai is 
the Door of Hope, which Miss Bonnell has started for 
slave girls. She either buys them or has them given 
to her by the courts and makes a home for them. Miss 
Morris teaches them to sew and embroider and to 
dress dolls in the various Chinese costumes of bride 
and groom, amah or nurse, house boy, and baby. 
Janet was delighted to add them to her collection. 
Mrs. Stafford took the twins to see the little girls, 
whom Miss Bonnell puts in a home in the country with 
Miss Dieterle. As the country roads were too bad for 
the horses to go all the way, the drive was finished in 
Chinese fashion in wheelbarrows. There was a deep 
rut along the roadside especially made for wheelbarrow 
travel, for Chinese families ride for miles in this way. 
The twins noticed a great many coffins standing in the 
fields as they rode along. A few had little brick houses 



128 AROUND THE WORLD 

built to shelter them. Some of the coffins were well 
made and others were just rude boxes. The small 
ones for babies were often Standard Oil cans. In the 
fields that were not filled with coffins and graves, 
people dressed in faded blue cotton were cultivating 
the soil. Others were going to market to sell their 
poultry and vegetables, which they carried in baskets, 
swinging from the ends of bamboo poles balanced on 
their shoulders. Sometimes babies are seen taking 
their airing in one of the baskets while the other is 
filled with cabbages or quacking ducks. 

The little girls' home is on the outskirts of a dirty, 
ill-smelling village. The clean, happy children feel 
so sorry for the village children that last Christmas, 
instead of having presents, they gave the money to 
open a village school. Miss Dieterle said that Miss 
Bonnell's work is not supported by any church, but by 
those who know her and who want to help the slave 
girls. 

One day Miss Chung, one of the Chinese secretaries 
of the Shanghai Young Women's Christian Associa- 
tion, invited Janet and her mother to a Chinese lunch- 
eon at her house. First, covered bowls of tea were 
brought to the stiff reception room, where the guests 
sat against the wall in beautiful, uncomfortable chairs 
of blackwood, inlaid with mother of pearl, and provided 
with cushions of embroidered scarlet satin. Then 
everyone went into the dining-room, where they sat 
down on stools around a table three feet square. A 
small bowl of soup and another of rice, a tiny plate and 
china spoon, and a pair of chopsticks were brought 
to each one. In the centre of the table were placed 
several plates of different kinds of food. Each person 



WITH JACK AND JANET 129 

served herself with her china spoon from the centre of 
the table and ate with her chopsticks. Janet did not 
know the names of all the food, but she liked it all, 
especially the bamboo sprouts, the salted squash seeds, 
and the candied lotus root. The other guests were two 
young ladies, Miss Abbey and Miss Hall, who have 
charge of a school for girls under the Woman's Union 
Missionary Society. Miss Abbey had a great adven- 
ture during the war. She took the girls safely in from 
the school to Shanghai one dark night, while bullets 
were flying all about. 

Miss Chung is a graduate of Wellesley College. 
She teaches the physical culture classes at the 
Y. W. C. A. Janet was amused over the efforts of the 
girls to go through with the exercises with as much 
energy as the teacher, when it was all they could do 
to move in the tight coats and trousers, which are now 
the fashion in China. Miss Chung is designing proper 
gymnasium suits for the girls. 

Mr. Howard and Jack found the Y. M. C. A. build- 
ing and classes just like those in America. There are 
Boy Scouts, camps, athletics, lectures, Bible classes, 
and Student Volunteers. 

Just out of Shanghai on the river bank are the brick 
buildings of Shanghai Baptist College. Dr. White, 
the President, invited the Howards to spend a day 
there. The twins enjoyed the White children and 
were interested in seeing how the land for the college 
was being made by filling in a good-sized lake. 

Although the Chinese are a very literary people and 
books were printed in China over five hundred years 
before printing was known to western nations, until 
recently there have been no newspapers and no good 



130 AROUND THE WORLD 

stories and magazines in Chinese. The work of the 
Christian Literature Society in Shanghai is to trans- 
late books, and Mrs. McGillvray of the Canadian Pres- 
byterian Board has just started a magazine for young 
people called "Happy Childhood." 

One of the best schools for girls in all China is the 
McTyeire School of the Southern Methodist Board. 
Some of its graduates are in college in America. 

As the earliest missionaries to China were Roman 
Catholics, Mrs. Howard wanted to see their mission 
at Siccawei, a suburb of Shanghai. There the French 
priests have an industrial school, where boys learn to 
make beautiful furniture and to do wood-carving, and 
the nuns have an orphanage and industrial school for 
girls, where lace-making and embroidery are taught. 

The first Protestant missionary to China was Robert 
Morrison, who was sent by the London Missionary 
Society in 1807. His great work was to translate 
the Bible into Chinese. 

One evening the Howards left Shanghai to go up the 
Yang Tze River to Nanking. Arriving early in the 
morning, they were met by Dr. Brown and Dr. Evans. 
After a long drive through the Chinese city, they 
arrived at the high ground outside its walls, where the 
missionaries live, all denominations working happily 
together as at Canton Christian College. Their houses, 
too, are much like those at Canton, except that each is 
surrounded by a high wall whose gate is guarded by a 
watchman. Instead of green tiles, yellow tiles are 
used for roofs at Nanking. The Howards shared their 
visit with the Browns and the Evans, as there are 
boys and girls in both families. 

The first thing Jack and Janet noticed at Nanking 



WITH JACK AND JANET 131 

was Purple Mountain, which stands at some distance 
from the city. Long stretches of treeless, rolling 
country reach out to it from the city walls. 

"Everyone in Nanking loves Purple Mountain," 
said Dr. Evans. "The old emperors of the Ming or 
Bright Dynasty must have loved it, too, for they 
chose to be buried near it. They were the last 
Chinese emperors to rule over China. Then came the 
Manchus, who called their dynasty the T'sing or Pure 
Dynasty. Nanking used to be the capital of China. 
The name means South Capital. In 1403 the Ming 
Emperor Yung-lo moved the capital to Peking, which 
means North Capital." 

"Hasn't Nanking always had a reputation for learn- 
ing?" asked Mr. Howard. 

"Yes, but since the old system of examinations has 
been given up for western education, the acres of 
examination halls are being torn down. They were 
rows of long, narrow sheds, divided into little cells. 
The students stayed in these cells nine days and nights 
writing the classics from memory and composing 
essays. Government will build a university on the old 
site." 

The Union Mission at Nanking is like a little city. 
Besides the regular missionaries, all the new ones of 
twenty-seven missionary societies come there to study 
the language. 

"Is the Chinese language very hard?" Janet asked 
one of the students. 

"About the hardest in the world, I suppose," said 
the student, "but it is great fun to study. The written 
language is entirely different from the spoken lan- 
guage. It is a kind of picture writing and is the same 



132 AROUND THE WORLD 

all over China. It is not spoken at alL The principal 
spoken language is Mandarin, but in the south there 
are seven different dialects. People who speak the 
Shanghai dialect cannot understand Cantonese." 

"I'm glad I don't have to write in one language and 
speak in another," said Janet. 

Mr. and Mrs. Howard had a very good time at 
Nanking. They visited the university, the Friends* 
mission and their hospital, which is in charge of a 
Chinese lady, Dr. Tsau, and Miss Laura White's school 
for girls. Miss White edits a magazine for women 
and translates American stories into Chinese. She is 
training some of the girls to do this, too. American 
children are not the only ones who love the Birds' 
Christmas Carol and Little Lord Fauntleroy. 

Some of the missionaries told exciting stories of the 
revolution. The fiercest fighting was at Nanking. 
The missionaries started the Red Cross work for the 
soldiers and took care of many of the orphan children. 
Their kindness was so appreciated by the Chinese that 
many have since become Christians. Dr. Macklin, a 
missionary of the Christian Church, was so kind to the 
Chinese in the war that they thought he was Jesus 
himself, and the coolies called him Jesus Christ. 

Jack and Janet enjoyed Nanking, because there are 
so many boys and girls there. The children of the 
missionaries have their own school and a teacher from 
America. As one teacher cannot teach thirty boys 
and girls all the studies they must know to enter 
college in America, their own mothers help her for a 
month at a time. 

One day all the young folks went for a picnic out at 
the Ming Tombs. The long way that winds through 



WITH JACK AND JANET 133 

the fields to the tombs is guarded by a procession of 
huge stone animals in pairs, like the animals going 
into the ark. There is a kneeling and a standing pair 
of each kind of animal. The boys and girls climbed 
up on the elephants, camels and horses and dared each 
other to jump down. Jack and Janet left Nanking 
with real sorrow, promising to write and never to 
forget their friends there. 

At Peking the Howards stayed with Dr. Hopkins in 
the Methodist Compound, which is a surprising sight 
in the heart of a Chinese city. After entering the gate, 
you are in a pretty New England street. Lawns and 
shrubbery are in front of the attractive houses. The 
first building at the left as you enter, is the church. 
Then you pass Bishop Bashford's house and the houses 
of the other missionaries and at the other end of the 
street you find the university buildings and President 
Lowrie's house. Everything has been erected since 
the siege of 1900, as not a single mission building was 
left standing by the Boxers. 

The Hopkins Memorial Hospital, which Dr. Hop- 
kins built in memory of his brother, is not far from 
the compound. Dr. Hopkins is a famous oculist. 

The Presbyterians and Congregationalists also have 
large missions at Peking. 

Peking is unlike most Chinese cities. The streets 
are wide and there are many beautiful buildings. The 
city is square with a great wall around it. Another 
wall divides it into two parts, the southern or Chinese 
city and the northern or Tartar city of the Manchus. 
The Tartar city is like a series of boxes, one within 
the other, for within the Tartar city is another walled 
square, called the Imperial city. This contains a third 



134 AROUND THE WORLD 

walled square called the Forbidden city, where the 
Emperor's Winter Palace is hidden. President Yuan 
Shi Ki now lives there. 

Legation Street, where the foreign ambassadors 
live, is in the Tartar city south of the Imperial city. 
Dr. Hobart took the family to a reception at the 
beautiful American embassy to meet Dr. Reinsch, the 
American ambassador, who is as much interested in 
missions as Mr. Conger, the former ambassador was. 
As all the foreigners in Peking had a pretty good 
chance to get acquainted, when they lived together in 
the British legation, there is a friendly feeling among 
them. The twins were more interested in the British 
legation than in anything else in Peking. The build- 
ings have been repaired since the siege, but one little 
bullet hole, called "Lest we forget," has been left in 
the wall of the church. The missionaries told thrilling 
stories of their experiences and of the heroism of the 
Chinese Christians, who died rather than deny their 
faith. Boys and girls died as bravely as their parents. 

The beautiful Temple of Heaven, where the state 
worship used to be held, is at Peking. The emperor, 
who was said to have a decree from heaven, giving him 
the right to rule, performed this worship. Just as the 
head of the family takes the responsibility of the wor- 
ship of the ancestors for the members of his household, 
the emperor had the responsibility of the worship of 
heaven for the state. The Temple of Heaven is in 
large grounds. Three great circular platforms, one 
above the other, built of white marble with a carved 
balustrade around each one, stand open to the sky. 
The most solemn ceremony was at midnight when the 




Fujiyama, the Sacred Mountain of Japan. 



WITH JACK AND JANET 135 

emperor knelt in the centre of the middle platform to 
worship the starry heavens. 

On the walls of Peking stand the astronomical in- 
struments, which the Jesuits placed there in 1640. 
They are beautifully mounted in bronze with dragon 
designs. Although they are unprotected from the rain 
and snow the instruments look as if they had just 
been placed there. 

A frequent sight at Peking is a caravan of shaggy 
brown camels from Thibet, plodding along beside the 
wall. Another sight not seen in the South is the strik- 
ing costume of the Manchu ladies. They wear an 
enormous headdress and their shoes are raised several 
inches from the ground by wooden blocks fixed to the 
soles. These ladies look very tall and impressive 
passing through the streets. 

There was not time to take the two days' trip to 
the Ming Tombs and the Nankou Pass, where the 
Great Wall is seen coming down out of the mountains. 
This wall is from twenty to sixty feet high and nearly 
fifteen hundred miles long. It is built of brick and 
stone and contains enough material to build a wall 
five or six feet high around the world. It was built by 
the Emperor Chin two hundred and twenty-one years 
before Christ, to keep the Tartars from getting into 
China from the north. The ruler who built the Great 
Wall, was the first emperor, for it was he who made 
China an empire by uniting the eighteen provinces 
under one government. The name China also comes 
from the Emperor Chin. This great man did one fool- 
ish thing. In order to have it said that all learning 
began with him, he ordered all books written before 
his reign to be burned. The scholars, who tried to 



136 AROUND THE WORLD 

save their books by burying them, were buried alive 
with them, but one scholar knew the Classics by heart 
and in the next reign his little granddaughter, who 
could write, took them down from dictation. 

Jack and Janet were disappointed to miss the trip 
to the Great Wall, until they found that their train 
from Peking to Mukden would pass right through it at 
Shan-hai-Kuan, a little Chinese town, which is near 
where the wall comes down from the mountains into 
the sea. 

Dr. Hopkins sent a letter ahead to Dr. Keeler, a 
Methodist missionary at Shan-hai-Kuan, asking him to 
call on the Howards, who would have to spend the 
night there. He came, bringing Pastor Te and Mrs. 
Te (pronounced like the French de). If Pastor Te 
could speak English, he might have told most inter- 
esting stories of his terrible experiences at the hands 
of the Boxers, from whom he escaped in almost mirac- 
ulous ways. 

The next morning the Howards passed out through 
the Great Wall of China into Manchuria and on 
through Mukden into Korea. 




WITH JACK AND JANET 137 



QUESTIONS ON CHAPTER V. 

1. How have foreigners treated China? 

2. What missions did the Howards see at Canton? 

3. Why did Chinamen cut their queues in 1911? 

4. How did the Emperor Kuang Hsu become inter- 
ested in reform? 

5. Explain the flag of the Republic of China. 

6. What four reasons has China for calling the 
United States her friend? 

7. What missions did the Howards see at Shanghai? 

8. Why is Nanking famous in the history of China ? 
What missions are at Nanking? 

9. Describe the city of Peking and its missions. 

10. For what four things is the Emperor Chin 
famous? 




3 
O 

CO 



c 

CO 



0> 
CO 



"AMERICA FOR ME" 

Tis fine to see the Old World, and travel up and down 
Among the famous palaces and cities of renown, 
To admire the crumbly castles and the statues of the kings, — 
But now I think I've had enough of antiquated things. 

So it's home again, and home again, America for me! 
My heart is turning home again, and there I long to be, 
In the land of youth and freedom beyond the ocean bars, 
Where the air is full of sunlight and the flag is full of stars. 

I know that Europe's wonderful, yet something seems to lack; 
The Past is too much with her, and the people looking back. 
But the glory of the Present is to make the Future free, — 
We love our land for what she is and what she is to be. 

Oh, it's home again, and home again, America for me! 
I want a ship that's westward bound to plough the rolling sea, 
To the blessed Land of Room Enough beyond the ocean bars, 
Where the air is full of sunlight and the flag is full of stars. 

HENRY VAN DYKE 



CHAPTER VI. 

A PEEP AT THREE NATIONS 

JACK and Janet's memories of their travels 
through northern China and Manchuria were of 
continuous moving pictures seen through train 
windows. Sometimes the views were of acres 
of grassy graves under a cold grey sky, with here and 
there a widow's arch of stone. Sometimes they were 
of lively scenes on station platforms, where peddlers 
sell steaming dumplings, eggs boiled in tea, bean curd, 
boiled sweet potatoes, and other tempting delicacies, 
to hungry travelers. The crowds at the stations are 
always good natured and ready to joke, in spite of cold 
that pierces the ragged cotton clothing, which many 
wear all winter. These northerners look larger and 
stronger than the people of the south. The more pros- 
perous wear fur-lined clothing and even some of the 
poorly dressed have fur caps, and tie skins of beavers 
or otters about their throats. The little covered carts, 
in which the country people drive to the stations, are 
often lined with a patch-work of bits of fur. 

After Mukden there was a pause in the pictures, for 
the Chosen Express entered Korea at night. The 
twins awoke in a new country, as peaceful and bright 
as the last had been bleak and dull. The bare hills 
and fields were sleeping under a soft pink haze. 
Peasants in white, with now and then a costume of 
faded red, were working in a leisurely way in the 
paddy fields. The pale pink light on the quiet scene 
made it seem so unreal that Jack and Janet felt as 



142 AROUND THE WORLD 

though it were a dream picture instead of Korea. The 
Japanese, who have ruled Korea since the war with 
Russia in 1904, call the country Chosen, the Land of 
Morning Calm. 

The train began to stop at little stations, and mild- 
faced men came on board, dressed in white, with ridic- 
ulous black stovepipe hats several sizes too small 
perched on the back of their heads and tied on with 
black ribbons in a bow under their chins. The shiny 
horsehair, of which the hats are made, is transparent 
enough to show the topknots which the men wear. 
Women with gentle faces and smoothly parted hair 
also entered the train. They wore full skirts of red, 
green, or blue cotton and very short jackets tied in a 
bow on one side. 

In the middle of the morning, the train reached 
Seoul, which seemed to the Howards more like a 
country village than a capital. On the way to the 
plain little hotel, called the Astor House, the rick- 
shaws passed through a fairly wide street of diminu- 
tive one-story shops with red tiled roofs. The twins 
giggled over the funny costumes of the people who 
were out walking. Instead of the horsehair hats, 
which, like the topknots, are worn as soon as the boy 
becomes engaged, some of the men wore huge, brimless, 
straw hats as big as bushel baskets. These are worn 
for mourning, to hide the face of the bereaved. Old 
men, with mild, kindly faces and sparse, goat-like 
beards, were walking slowly along in the sunshine, 
smoking slender pipes a yard long. The women in the 
street wore bright green kimonos over their heads and 
drawn closely about their faces, the empty sleeves 
flapping in the breeze. They looked like Moslem 



WITH JACK AND JANET 143 

women, for only their eyes were left uncovered. This 
curious costume is said to date back to a time of war 
many years ago, when women threw extra clothing 
about them when they went to the fields with their 
husbands, in case the men should be called away 
suddenly and need it. 

The Howards took a guide at the hotel and started 
out to call on Dr. Avison at the Severance Hospital 
of the Presbyterian mission. The missions of Korea 
belong to the Methodists and Presbyterians, American, 
Canadian and Australian, who are working together as 
much as possible. The guide proved to be a Christian 
and a graduate of the Union Academy and College 
at Pyeng Yang, where there are over five hundred 
students. 

Dr. Avison took the Howards all through the hos- 
pital. In the operating room the gentle Korean 
nurses were preparing for an operation. In the base- 
ment men were making the medicines, which the hos- 
pital supplies to all parts of the country. On the top 
floor there is a laboratory for research work. Besides 
these departments the hospital has a large medical 
school with about one hundred students and a training 
school for nurses. 

"Doctors are greatly needed in Korea," said Dr. 
Avison. "People here have so little idea of cleanliness 
and care in sickness that diseases like smallpox and 
cholera are as common as measles and chickenpox in 
America. There is no word for nurse in the Korean 
language. The chief medicine the Koreans used before 
medical missionaries came was ginseng, which was 
supposed to be a cure for all diseases. But things are 
changing so fast for the better that it almost takes my 



144 AROUND THE WORLD 

breath away. In twenty-five years I believe that 
Korea will be a Christian nation and missionaries will 
not be needed. The history of Christianity in Korea 
is wonderful. 

"For three thousand years the Koreans worshipped 
idols. Besides Confucianism and Buddhism, which 
were brought from China, there was a more popular 
religion of many gods called Shamanism. Like China, 
Korea shut her doors to foreigners and was called the 
Hermit Nation. Not until 1881 did the United States 
succeed in making a treaty with Korea. Three years 
later a Presbyterian missionary, Dr. Allen, began med- 
ical missions by opening a hospital for the Govern- 
ment at Seoul. Later the hospital was taken from gov- 
ernment control and is now the Severance Hospital. 
The first schools in Seoul were opened by Methodist 
missionaries with the consent of the king, who named 
the boys' school Paichi Haktang or Hall for the Train- 
ing of Useful Men and the school for girls Ewa Hak- 
tang or Pear Flower School, the pear blossom being the 
national flower and the emblem of the royal family. 

"At first the preachers of Christianity had a hard 
time on account of the superstition of the people, but 
when the interest in Christianity once began it spread 
very rapidly. The Koreans are the most wonderful 
Christians in the world. They give generously of 
both their money and their time. There are two col- 
lections in the churches, a money collection and the 
Nal-yen-bo or day collection. All the church mem- 
bers pledge days of service to the Lord. On these 
days each one goes to his friends and neighbors or to 
the people of other villages and tries to persuade them 
to become Christians. In 1910 the Korean Christians 



WITH JACK AND JANET 145 

decided to visit personally one million people. One 
church pledged ten thousand days, another eighty-four 
hundred, and so on. Do you wonder that the number 
of Christians is increasing fast? In 1909 a church a 
day was founded. The Bible is a new book to the 
Koreans. The first translation of the whole Bible in 
the Korean language was not published until 1911. 
It is the most popular book in the country. The state 
approves it as a text-book in all the schools, and I wish 
you could see how the Korean Christians study it. 
Perhaps if I tell you a story you will get some idea of 
what I mean, 

"A Korean came into the study of a missionary one 
day and said, 'I have been memorizing some verses 
in the Bible, and thought I would come and recite 
them to you.' The missionary listened while this 
convert repeated in Korean, without an error, the 
entire sermon on the mount. The missionary said, 'If 
you simply memorize it, it will do you no good. You 
must practise it.' The Korean Christian smiled as 
he replied, 'That's the way I learned it. I am only a 
stupid farmer, and when I tried to memorize it the 
verses wouldn't stick. So I hit on this plan. I mem- 
orized one verse and then went out and practised it on 
my neighbors until I had it ; then I took the next verse 
and repeated the process, and now I intend to learn the 
entire Gospel of Matthew that way.' And he did it. * 

"The Koreans themselves are making more converts 
in a year than a missionary could in several hundred 
years." 

Dr. Avison was so interesting, that it was hard to 
leave the hospital, but Mrs. Howard wanted to sec 



* Quoted from Methodist booklet by George Heber Jone*. 



146 AROUND THE WORLD 

the Presbyterian school for girls and the Methodist 
woman's hospital called the Lillian Harris Memorial. 
The twins were greatly entertained at the school by 
the girls who were making chocolates for sale and by 
those who sat ironing, Korean fashion, pounding the 
clothes smooth with little wooden paddles. 

The Howards also visited the Y. M. C. A., where 
classes of boys were making shoes and learning 
printing and carpentry. The boys from the cigarette 
factory are so anxious to learn, that they asked if they 
might have evening classes in reading and Bible. The 
American Y. M. C. A. secretary is glad to do anything 
he can to make up for the great evil which his country- 
men are spreading in Asia, the cigarette habit. 

When missionaries first came to Korea, the Koreans 
used the Chinese written language almost entirely, 
although they had a more convenient one of their own 
with an alphabet. This has been revived by the mis- 
sionaries. The only advantage of the Chinese written 
language is that it is used by the Japanese, too, and by 
means of it the three nations can understand each 
other. 

"It sounds funny to say that we only spent a day in 
Korea," said Jack, as the train left Seoul the next 
morning, "but I couldn't have learned as much about 
the country in school in a month." 

Arriving at Fusan at dusk, the Howards went from 
the train on board the boat for Shiminoseki. Their 
first glimpse of Japan was from their stateroom win- 
dows in the morning. The low, black islands looked 
just like the India ink pictures of them, so often seen. 
The railroad from Shiminoseki skirts the beautiful 
Inland Sea, with its thousands of island mountains. 



WITH JACK AND JANET 147 

The rocky coast reminded the twins of New England, 
except that beside the rocks and pines there are lux- 
uriant orange groves. A Baptist missionary, Captain 
Bickel, cruises in a mission yacht in the Inland Sea, 
carrying the Bible to the people of the islands. 

The Howards saw so many beautiful and interesting 
things in Japan, that it would take a whole book as big 
as this to mention them all. They found that Confu- 
cianism, Buddhism, and Shintoism, which teaches the 
worship of the emperor, are giving way to Christianity. 
Almost everywhere they found missions. At Himeji 
there is a Baptist mission, with a fine girls' school in 
charge of Miss Wilcox and a church under the care of 
Mr. and Mrs. Briggs. In the beautiful city of Kyoto 
there is a great Congregational mission, with a large 
girls' high school in charge of Miss Denton, and the 
famous Doshisha University, whose president is Mr. 
Harrada. The Doshisha was founded by Joseph Hardy 
Neesima, who, when a little orphan boy, ran away to 
America and was adopted and educated by Mr. Alpheus 
Hardy. Mrs. Neesima is still living and invited the 
twins to her house to see her dolls. The doll festival, 
which begins March third, was over, but Mrs. Neesima 
had not yet taken her collection down from the 
red shelves. On the top shelf sat the Emperor and 
Empress and their court, the court musicians were on 
the shelf below and other classes of society were repre- 
sented on the other shelves. Janet found everything 
that a girl who loves dolls could want in the collection 
which Mrs. Neesima began when she was a little girl. 
But the dolls, their furniture and dishes are not to play 
with. After the festival they are put away until the 
next year, when new dolls are added to the collection, 



148 AROUND THE WORLD 

which Japanese girls and women exhibit once a year 
on red-covered shelves. 

Of course, a visit to Japan would not be complete 
without a trip to Nikko, to see the mountains and 
waterfalls, the temples and the red lacquer bridge 
across the rushing river, the stone lanterns, the torii or 
temple gateways, the avenue of cryptomeria trees and 
the statues of a hundred gods along the river bank. 
No one can say the word kek-ko, which means beauti- 
ful, until he has seen Nikko, say the Japanese. 

There is so much to see in the great city of Tokyo, 
that it makes your head swim. It was the first of 
April and the cherry blooms were just opening in 
Uyeno Park. All the schools were having commence- 
ment exercises. Janet and her mother went from one 
graduation to another. At the Canadian Methodist 
School the class dinner of six courses was cooked by 
the girls of the junior class in their beautiful domestic 
science building. After dinner there were toasts and 
music. Ishihara San of the Baptist mission invited 
Janet to see one of her kindergarten classes graduated. 
The flower garden of children in their gay kimonos 
was a pretty sight. Each child and each girl in the 
teachers' class received a diploma and a box of cakes. 
At the Joshi Gakuin, the beautiful girls' school of the 
Presbyterian mission in charge of Miss Halsey and 
Miss Millikin, the commencement essays and music 
were much like those at an American school. The 
former principal, Mrs. Yajima, was present. She is 
now at the head of the W. C. T. U. At Miss Tsuda's 
school the girls gave a commencement play in English. 
This is a Christian school, although it does not belong 
to any mission. The Protestant Episcopal school, St. 




Avenue of Royal Palms at Honolulu. 



WITH JACK AND JANET 149 

Margaret's Hall, in charge of Miss Heywood, is in 
a Japanese house, but the girls have an American 
gymnasium. 

The Friends are working for peace in Japan through 
their peace apostle, Mr. Gilbert Bowles. Other Ameri- 
cans who are doing good work in Japan are the Salva- 
tion Army workers. Their street meetings in Tokyo 
are very popular. 

At Yokohama, which is almost near enough to be 
called a suburb of Tokyo, there are three fine girls' 
schools, the Baptist school at Kanagawa under Miss 
Converse, Ferris Seminary, managed by Mr. and Mrs. 
Booth of the Dutch Reformed Church, and the school 
of the Woman's Union mission in charge of Miss 
Loomis. Miss Susie Pratt, of the Woman's Union 
Missionary Society, has a fine Bible school, which 
trains a large class of lovely Japanese Bible women. 
The Methodists also have a school for Bible training 
at Yokohama. 

With all these schools the Universalists think that 
another is not so necessary, as a happy Christian home 
for the girls who come to Tokyo to study at the gov- 
ernment schools. The pleasant students' hostel, which 
the Universalist women have in Tokyo, is called the 
Blackmer Home. The girls, who board there are 
taught domestic science and home-making. 

Two American ladies, who live in Yokohama, in a 
beautiful house on the Bluff, are helping the mission- 
aries in a lovely way. As the Japanese are very fond 
of artistic cards and books, Miss Baucus and Miss 
Dickinson spend their time designing and writing 
booklets, calendars and Christmas and Easter cards. 
Their own publishing house prints these and sells 



150 AROUND THE WORLD 

them to the Japanese, who have plenty of pretty cards 
but none with Christian sentiments. The twins 
especially enjoyed the afternoon at Miss Dickinson's 
house, for she showed them her cards and curios and 
her conservatory full of gorgeous parrots. She has 
twenty and some speak distinctly. 

On clear days at Yokohama, the Howards saw 
Fujiyama from the Bluff, which is the American quar- 
ter of the city. One day they took a trip to Kama- 
kura to see the great Buddha and the cherry blooms. 
The next day the blossoms were covered with snow. 
The twins went out in the storm in covered kurumas, 
as jinrickshas are called in Japan. The Japanese 
boys and girls were out with yellow paper umbrellas, 
clumping through the snow in their wooden geta, 
which they wear instead of rubbers. They are just 
blocks of wood slipped on like sandals to raise one 
above the slush. 

Japan is so delightful, that Jack and Janet expected 
to feel sorry to leave, but after experiencing an earth- 
quake one night at Tokyo and hearing that these are 
apt to come several times a week, they were almost 
relieved when the steamer sailed from Yokohama. 
Then came the long voyage of seventeen days across 
the Pacific. It was warm enough all the way to 
Honolulu to take a dip every day in the canvas swim- 
ming tank on deck and to play baseball and other 
games. The most interesting event was crossing the 
one hundred and eightieth meridian on Easter Sunday 
and getting an extra day. Jack and Janet were sure 
that not many people ever had two Easters in the 
same year. 

Among the passengers was a sweet-looking lady, 



WITH JACK AND JANET 151 

whom Mrs. Howard met at one of the commencements 
in Tokyo. Her name was Mrs. Bellamy and she had 
been to Japan to visit the Canadian Methodist mission 
at Kanazawa, where there is an orphanage named for 
her little boy who died. One quiet day on deck Mrs. 
Bellamy told the twins about him. He was a helpless 
cripple all his short life. He could not even use his 
hands to write, but learned to use a pencil strapped to 
his shoe. His mother had a mission band in the prairie 
town of Moose Jaw, where the family lived, and Herbie 
was made the first president. All the children were 
planning to earn money for their mite-boxes, but there 
seemed to be nothing that little Herbie could do until 
someone offered to pay for names and texts that he 
wrote. The demand for these grew and during the 
first year the little boy earned twenty dollars for the 
mission band to send to Japan. The other children 
brought enough to make the offering of the first year 
eighty-four dollars and sixty cents. In a few years 
the Moose Jaw Mission Band was able to pay for the 
orphanage at Kanazawa, which in 1898, two years 
before the little president died, was named the Herbie 
Bellamy Orphanage. The story of this little cripple, 
who lived to be only twelve years old, reminded Jack 
and Janet of Mrs. Ewing's Story of a Short Life, 
which they had always loved, only Herbie seemed a 
greater hero than Leonard, because he was not merely 
brave and "contented with his lot," but forgot himself 
in working for others. Even now his life goes on 
helping the children of Japan. 

After eleven days on the great Pacific Ocean, with- 
out a glimpse of land or of a single ship, the steamer 



152 AROUND THE WORLD 

stopped for twenty-four hours at Honolulu. The 
tropical beauty and delightful climate did not seem 
half so wonderful to the twins as the spirit of joy and 
life in the air. They had seen other beautiful places in 
their travels, but all were spoiled by heathenism. 
Their hearts glowed with happiness and patriotism 
as they stepped on American soil. Mr. and Mrs. 
Howard were even more conscious than the twins that 
the reason Honolulu seems like heaven to travellers 
coming from the East is that it has the atmosphere 
which belongs only to Christian nations. Although all 
the people of America are not Christians, they all enjoy 
the results of Christianity, just as the people of India 
and China suffer from the effects of heathenism. 

"And to think that a hundred years ago the 
Hawaiians were a race of savages," said Mr. Howard, 
as the twins noticed the dignity and prosperity of the 
city and of everyone they passed in the street. 

"Were they really, father?" said Jack. 

"I believe you are going to tell us another wonderful 
story," said Janet. 

"No, only part of one," Mr. Howard replied. "The 
rest you will enjoy reading for yourself in a book we 
have at home called the Transformation of Hawaii, by 
Miss Brain. She tells how when the American Revo- 
lution began, the Hawaiian Islands were- not known to 
the world. Then on July 18, 1778, Captain Cook, an 
Englishman, who was looking for the Northwest Pas- 
sage, discovered them and named them the Sandwich 
Islands for his employer, Lord Sandwich. The inhabi- 
tants at first thought Captain Cook was a god. When 
they found out their mistake, they murdered him. 



WITH JACK AND JANET 153 

The Hawaiians were then savages. They wore no 
clothing and had terrible customs. They had many 
idols, but their most dreaded goddess was Pele, 
who was supposed to live in the burning Lake of 
Halemaumau in the crater of Kilauea, the largest 
active volcano in the world. Hogs and sometimes 
human beings were thrown into the lake of fire as 
sacrifices to Pele. The savages had a strange custom 
called tabu. Whatever the priests said the gods had 
placed under tabu, must not be touched on pain of 
death. A great many things were tabu to women 
which were not to men, and to common people which 
were not to priests and chiefs. This was a convenient 
way for some people to reserve all the best for them- 
selves. We get our word 'tabooed* from the custom. 

"You can see that the Hawaiians needed mission- 
aries as much as any people ever did. A poor little 
Hawaiian boy, named Henry Obookiah, who was 
brought to America by the captain of a ship in 1792, 
was educated at Yale and planned to go back to his 
people with Christianity. But he died before he could 
reach there. Hiram Bingham, a student at Andover, 
offered to go in his place and Asa Thurston joined him. 
On October 17, 1819, they sailed from Boston on the 
brig Thaddeus. 

"After a voyage of five months, instead of five days 
as it is now, they reached the islands to find that the 
Hawaiians had already given up tabu and the worship 
of idols, and were more prepared for Christianity than 
the missionaries had expected to find them. The mis- 
sionaries were allowed to land and invited to stay for 
one year, if they behaved well. The traders, who were 
the only foreigners the Hawaiians then knew, had not 



154 AROUND THE WORLD 

always behaved well and had prejudiced the king 
against the missionaries. After landing his passen- 
gers, the captain of the brig sailed back to Boston with 
the provisions the missionaries had brought to last 
three years. This left them at the mercy of the 
islanders. The king and chiefs were glad to be taught 
to read and write, and as soon as they had learned, all 
the people were commanded to attend the mission 
schools and learn reading and writing. The mission- 
aries had to make the written language and translate 
all the school books. The Bible was translated and 
many of the savages became Christians. 

"Although the king had forbidden tabu and the 
worship of idols, some people still believed in Pele and 
kept her tabus. The Story of Kapiolani, the Christian 
queen, who defied Pele and broke her power, is thrill- 
ing. In fifty years the islanders were so changed, that 
the American Board did not think it necessary to send 
missionaries to them any longer, and Hawaii was 
declared a Christian nation. 

"In 1898 the Hawaiian Islands asked to be annexed 
to the United States. The people knew that some 
other nation would take possession sooner or later and 
they preferred to belong to the United States." 

The aquarium, the surf riders, and the view from the 
cliff called Pali, of the iridescent rainbow colors of the 
water, were all wonderful sights to the twins, but 
nothing was so wonderful as the knowledge of what 
Christianity does for the world. 

When the boat left in the morning a band played 
American airs on the pier and all the people from the 
hotels came to see her sail and to bring leis or garlands 
of flowers for their departing friends. As the steamer 



WITH JACK AND JANET 



155 



moved away, the garlands were taken off and dropped 
on the water to float back with the tide, a symbol of 
the wish of all to come back to Honolulu. 

With the strains of Auld Lang Syne ringing in their 
ears the Howards began the last part of their voyage. 
In five days more the steamer entered the Golden Gate. 




156 AROUND THE WORLD 



QUESTIONS ON CHAPTER VI. 

1. Mention four things that Jack and Janet noticed 
on their way to Seoul, or in Seoul before they reached 
the hotel. 

2. Tell all that you know about the missions at 
Seoul. 

3. "What may we learn from the Korean Christians? 

4. Give the names of as many denominations as 
you can that have missions in Japan. 

5. How many kinds of mission work do you know 
of in Japan? 

6. Tell the story of Herbie Bellamy. 

7. What do travellers coming from the East notice 
at Honolulu that those coming from the West would 
not notice? 

8. What strange customs and beliefs did the 
Hawaiians have one hundred years ago? 

9. Who were the first missionaries to Hawaii and 
when did they begin their work? 

10. How long did it take Hawaii to become a Chris- 
tian nation? 




u 

c/3 



WITH JACK AND JANET 157 

REVIEW. 
JACK AND JANET'S PARTY. 

When the twins reached home, they gave a party. 
All their friends, young and old, received an invitation 
something like this : 

"You are invited to take a personally conducted trip 
around the world. The tour may be made comfortably 
with the service of the best guides, in an evening. 
Join the party at the Sunday School Room of the 

Church at seven-thirty on Saturday, 

April tenth." 

Everyone was curious to know more about the 
party, but Miss West and Mr. Cole were the only older 
people except Mr. and Mrs. Howard, who were in the 
secret. All day Saturday, mysterious preparations 
went on in the Sunday School Room. Boys and girls 
kept going in with bundles, and laughter was heard 
behind the closed doors. 

When the guests arrived the place was transformed. 
Every corner of the large room and each small class 
room opening into it, was decorated to represent an 
eastern country. Oriental draperies, embroideries and 
flags were on the walls and curios, pictures and illus- 
trated notebooks were spread out on tables. Boys in 
blue caps with Cook & Son in red letters acted as 
guides and conducted the travellers through the foreign 
lands. In each country boys and girls in costume sold 
refreshments for the benefit of foreign missions. In 
Egypt, veiled Moslem girls sat on the floor at low 
tabourets, serving tiny cups of Turkish coffee (sweet- 



158 AROUND THE WORLD 

ened black coffee). Others sold dates, figs and Turk- 
ish delight (gelatine candy). In Ceylon, Tamil girls 
served cocoanut cakes. In India, Hindu maidens 
offered lime water or lemonade and little nosegays of 
marigolds and yellow and white daisies, arranged on 
brass trays. In Burma, boys and girls carrying large, 
round, basket-work trays of bananas and oranges on 
their heads were doing a thriving business. In Singa- 
pore, the point nearest the Equator, ice cream and fans 
were very acceptable. In China there was Canton 
ginger, in Korea there were chocolates supposed to 
have been made by Korean school girls, in Japan tea 
and wafers, and in Hawaii there was candied pine- 
apple. Everyone had a good time and quite a little 
money was earned for missions. 

Any mission band could give this party, adding to it 
a mite-box opening and prize distribution for the best 
notebooks, which should be on exhibition. The cos- 
tumes are easily made, or they may be rented from 
some of the mission boards. 



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